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Spin Doctor Continuation
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Fort Apache
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Half Wit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jug Addict S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Man with One Rad Shoe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miles Beyond S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spin Doctor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spin Doctor Continuation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 661 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 12, 2003 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags.
Details
Update: April, 16 2021.
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Description
This route continues upwards and right from the shared topanchor above Spin Doctor (5.10d), Jug Addict (5.10d), andMiles Beyond (5.11b).
Avoid the temptation to move up and left to the close bolt,as this is actually a variation linking Jug Addict with theContinuation. Going from the belay anchor to the left boltwill make for some serious rope drag high up.
Head up to the first bolt, and then follow the crack systemright to the next bolt, which is right next to the topanchor for Man with One Rad shoe (5.10d). The crux iscommiting footwork on a rather runout section of traversyclimbing. Needless to say, falling in the crux would bequite painful. Once you're to the second bolt head straightup, where climbing is considerably simpler.
You can walk off the top of this route, as you are at therim of table mountain. I don't place too much trust in thesling on the higher top anchor bolt, so I would recommendbringing another sling of your own.
Avoid the temptation to move up and left to the close bolt,as this is actually a variation linking Jug Addict with theContinuation. Going from the belay anchor to the left boltwill make for some serious rope drag high up.
Head up to the first bolt, and then follow the crack systemright to the next bolt, which is right next to the topanchor for Man with One Rad shoe (5.10d). The crux iscommiting footwork on a rather runout section of traversyclimbing. Needless to say, falling in the crux would bequite painful. Once you're to the second bolt head straightup, where climbing is considerably simpler.
You can walk off the top of this route, as you are at therim of table mountain. I don't place too much trust in thesling on the higher top anchor bolt, so I would recommendbringing another sling of your own.
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