||Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 140'
|Consensus: ||WI4+ M4 [details]|
|FA: ||1999: Tom Yandon, Joe Szot|
|Page Views: ||985|
|Submitted By: ||Jim Lawyer on Jan 2, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: The route Spike, taken December 29, 2012.
Varied climbing with a dramatic finish. A favorite of Joe Szot, and named after his dog.
P1 (M4): Go up the crack past the two trees. After the second tree, traverse right to a ledge (crux). If it's snowy and the holds are hidden, this can be desperate. Once on the ledge, continue right to belay in a tree clump well right of the next pitch.
P2 (WI4+): Traverse back left on the ledges, then straight up to the spike. Get in the hidden cave behind the spike for a welcome rest. Ride the spike to its top, then go up and left on a slab to the trees.
Descent: Double rope rappel back to your packs, then another rappel down the gully.
If conditions permit, the direct is a real prize.
This route is located on the wall right of the Power Play / Lilith area, just before the lake narrows towards the outlet. Walk up to the Laceration/Reunion amphitheater, then follow the wall up and left. Scramble/solo up a steep, iced-up streambed, then up the slope another 50' to a right-leaning crack with two trees (the first tree is 10' up, and the tree is 20' up).
Standard ice mixed rack to 3".
Climbers on P2 of Spike. In these conditions, ther...