|VD (Very Direct) Wall
This is listed as unknown route #591 in the Mayr guide. Start in the right side of the large, shallow cave. Work up a left-facing flake, then transition right into another left-facing flake. Get up high under the roof and work out onto the face. Continue up the steep headwall on delicate aggregate. Finish on the big ramp at chain anchors. Although the roof is the crux, the lower section is quite tricky and physically demanding; the upper section let’s up very little and is sustained. Rappel to descend.
Right side of the big cave in the center of VD wall.
5 bolts, bolted chain anchor
Bob S finishing the crux.
FA Spike the Punch.
Bob on the headwall of Spike the Punch.
|By Eamon Doyle|
From: Sierra Madre, CA
Jan 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
As of 1/3/2012, there were some insecure sandstone flakes between the 3rd and 4th bolt. They were capable of supporting weight vertically, but I recommend being very careful that you not pull out on them. Also, you belayer might consider a helmet.