|White Heat Wall
A route in two parts. A nice thin slab intro with well protected technical climbing leads up to a bulge. Shake it out, because its pumpy and routefinding (on a sport route?) takes some time. Climb some initial big moves on pockets up and left into the bulge. Ride it to the anchors. Stout and fun climb.
Located on the bulge to the right of the 12's on the main panel of rock like White Heat and Blushing Crows. Just left of the bulge Central Pillar (11a) climbs a pillar and skirts the left side of the bulge. Spike 'n Vein, is the third route to the right on the bulge. Winter Storm Warning is immediately right of this, and skirts the bulge on the right.
5 bolts to anchors.
Working up the difficult slab of Spike N' Vein.
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 10, 2008
I wouldn't say the initial slab is "well protected". For a route that is 3 stars I would think there would be way more chalk on it. The first bolt should be stick-clipped even though I did without. Given 3 out of 3 stars in the newest guide, a POS in my opinion. The upper section had decent moves, but every hold was sharp and prickly. I love routes with diversity such as this, but the prickly holds in the upper section and obscure slab route finding was just 1 out of 3 stars in my book.
|By Luke Bertelsen|
Jul 16, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I thought this climb was fun, but the bolt spacing was odd. Committing climbing brings you to a high first bolt (easily solved with a stick clip), and then the run between bolt 3 and 4 (high on the slab to well into the bulge) is just silly.