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BETA PHOTO: Just below the crux on the second pitch.
Although this little route might be easily overlooked given the lack luster description in Skip's book, it is worthy of a quick run and an excellent warm up. Start in the double crack system just up the hill from Le Petit Arbre
and left of the nasty little mossy gully. The double crack system is obvious as it terminates at a point about 20' up.
The first pitch, while mostly straightforward, contains your standard Vedauwoo funk. Follow the double cracks up for some mellow climbing to a bulge containing a wide section just above the point. Here you can bust out your chicken wings and arm bars or just lay back the crack on some nice face holds (what I ended up doing) to surmount this obstacle. Then continue up the hand size crack to a big ledge just above another grassy ledge to the right.
For the second pitch, move the belay down and over about 10' to the aforementioned grassy ledge (if you don't you will potentially put a lot of stress on your system if the leader were to fall). Take the leftmost crack of the two cracks up from the ledge using mostly hands. About 20' up, the wall bulges and the crack pinches down to almost perfect fingers - this is what you came for. Clip the old pin (and probably back it up - a nut will do) and step up and into the crack - this is the crux. The crack eases up considerably above the bulge. Belay atop Blair I.
This route is located uphill from Le Petit Arbre
and just past the mossy gully. To get down, rap off the boulder at the south end from the chains to the top of P1 of Le Petit Arbre
. A 70 m will not make it all the way down, so from here you will either have to walk off south or rap off of the bolts of P1 of Le Petit Arbre
Although from the bottom, this appears to be wide, I found that you could easily get away with a set of singles to a #3 Camalot C4 supplemented with a set of nuts. For the belay atop the first pitch, you could actually just wedge your body in to the crack behind the rocks if you had no gear available.
Punching through the bulge-y crux.
By Katie Foster
From: Laramie, Wy
Jul 14, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
First pitch is very dirty and mossy but fun and interesting the whole way. First pitch is probably only 5.8? Second pitch has a stiff crux.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 9, 2015
Take the left crack from the belay ledge as mentioned in Social Mores for a 5.8 route, it's a good a good alternative when Le Petit Arbre is crowded.
A new rappel station can be found about 50 feet to the east (left), at the top of Three Roof. 30 m to the ground if you veer left.