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Punta Fiames
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"Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete T 
South Face, "Via Commune." T 
Via Ferrata Michielli Strobel TR 

"Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 15 pitches, 1350', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: F. Jori and Kaethe Broske, 19 August 1909.
Season: Dry weather
Page Views: 1,282
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 25, 2011

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Maurizio "Toto" de Zanna, leading "Spigolo Fiames,...

Description 

The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options become more and more limited as the arete narrows; stay on the crest for the most part, with occasional excursions to the right (East).

This route is characteized by excellent rock and great protection.

Descend by means of a path to the North leading to a scree gully; the gully ends at a marked path.


Location 

The route begins at the SE base of the formation and follows the "Via Commune" for several pitches


Protection 

Mostly fixed protection; bring a light rack with a few larger camming devices (#3 Camalot). Bring plenty of slings.



Photos of "Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete Slideshow Add Photo
"Toto" signing the route register, which is on a ledge one pitch below the summit.
"Toto" signing the route register, which is on a l...
Enrico Maioni leading "Spigolo Jori" on Punta Fiames.
Enrico Maioni leading "Spigolo Jori" on Punta Fiam...
Right on the corner. "Toto" is gripping the arÍte with his right hand!
Right on the corner. "Toto" is gripping the arÍte ...
View across lower portion of wall, towards the "via Normale."
View across lower portion of wall, towards the "vi...
Above the 5.7+ crux.
Above the 5.7+ crux.
My young butt sitting on the summit, 12 September 1963.
My young butt sitting on the summit, 12 September ...
Traversing from "via Commune" onto the SE Arete.
Traversing from "via Commune" onto the SE Arete.
View from low on the route, looking towards summit.
BETA PHOTO: View from low on the route, looking towards summit...
Maurizio de Zanna at the low crux, Spigolo Fiames.
Maurizio de Zanna at the low crux, Spigolo Fiames.
Turning the roof and entering the diagonal offwidth crack. One pitch to go!
Turning the roof and entering the diagonal offwidt...
Easy terrain low on the route. Can you find "Toto?"
Easy terrain low on the route. Can you find "Toto?...
Easy climbing low on the route.
Easy climbing low on the route.
Photo shows upper pitch details, which are on the face just R. from arÍte crest.
BETA PHOTO: Photo shows upper pitch details, which are on the ...
Comments on "Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Nov 25, 2011

Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included.