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Conan's Corridor
Routes Sorted
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Boulder Dice T 
Boulderado (aka California Face) S 
Colorado Crack T 
Fool's Gold T 
Gem T 
Green Hornet TR 
Lichanvura Trivirgata T 
Pictures at an Exhibition T 
Spiderman T 
Tapeworm Traverse T 
True Dice T 
Winter Wine T 

Spiderman 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Long and John Bachar, September 1975
Page Views: 3,626
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 19, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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BETA PHOTO: It's wide at the top!

Description 

This is a burly 10a in my opinion. My climbing partner kept repeating "There is no way this is 10a" all the way up while following. On first glance, it appears that the route is essentially over once you pull through the overhanging section 25' off the ground. To my surprise, I found the rest of the route to be pretty sustained all-in-all.

Begin just left of Colorado Crack. An overhanging section lies 25' off the deck. Above here, the flared crack is somewhat difficult to protect. The last 15' or so before topping out is wide and awkward.

Anchor: slung block.

To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right) as for Colorado Crack. This involves a move or two of downclimbing.

Protection 

TCUs to 3" cams (double set).


Photos of Spiderman Slideshow Add Photo
This photo shows just how long the upper section i...
This photo shows just how long the upper section i...
Scott follows.
Scott follows.
Ben leading spiderman
Ben leading spiderman
Spiderman
Spiderman
Conan's Corridor
BETA PHOTO: Conan's Corridor
High on Spiderman.
High on Spiderman.
Spiderman (5.10a/b)
BETA PHOTO: Spiderman (5.10a/b)
Me on Spiderman
Me on Spiderman
Ben going for a fist jam
Ben going for a fist jam
Don't mess with Spiderman...
Don't mess with Spiderman...
Vicky cruises Spiderman
Vicky cruises Spiderman
Mike Morley wishing for super powers on Spiderman.
Mike Morley wishing for super powers on Spiderman.

Comments on Spiderman Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2014
By RTM
Feb 13, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I went up there one summer afternoon, to beat the heat. Onsighted this thing on lead, it was hard, scaRy and long. Had to fight hard for that one. Rad climbing experience, rad climb!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 19, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Almost lost it on this one, right at the top, if my right foot hadn't accidentally slotted into a pocket I would have been off. Way strenno.

Spiderman is THE climb to do in the greater Jumbo Rocks area.
By Tom Painter
Aug 13, 2003

Given the debate as to whether The Rubicon is 10b or 10c (not 10d) and Spiderman exacts a greater toll than The Rubicon, I'd give it 10b. Tom Painter
By Bryce Breslin
Mar 13, 2005

Looked like the protection would be tricky at some key spots because of the flare to the crack. We slung the block to toprope it, note that you need lots of extension to do this.Some painful finger locks down low due to grainy rock before the crack opens to hands and wider.Great climb, though. I thought it was harder than Colorado Crack, my partner found them to be about the same.

Bryce Breslin
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 10, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Climbed this route again today (4/10/05)and remembered how strenuous it was, yet also how good a climb it was, it's got some great moves over the bulge and up the crack to the offwidth, I arrived there feeling quite fresh - 10 seconds (and a few feet up the offwidth) later I was utterly knackered! I'm not so sure about 5.10a, sure the hardest move is about that, but geez, how to grade this one...? E2 5b that's my take.
By Randy
Sep 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route, as good or better than Colorado Crack. Seemed like solid 10b to me. Protects very well with 1/2 to 1 inch cams, with wider stuff (2-3 inches) helpful for the top.
By Woody Stark
Sep 24, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was second on this today. Definitely 10B. Wear long pants or tape your left leg.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Followed this route recently. Glad I was wearing knickers and not shorts and it definitely gave me a run for the money. Looked (and after discussion confirmed) that it takes good pro which for some reason we thought it didn't. I'd do it again when in the area.
By Mulligan
Feb 12, 2009

This is a great route that really requires a cool head if your largest piece is a #2 Camalot. Unfortunately I almost lost it when my foot got stuck 5 feet from the top and I was looking at 30' footer. Thank god for armbars.
By Alec
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Burly, strenuous, painful, and often insecure crack climbing from fingers to offwidth. A pretty hefty sandbag, this is at least .10b, and likely harder, even by JTree standards. Really, really good line though.
By bud miller
From: SAR site, Camp4
Feb 1, 2012

Thought this was more classic than the Colorado crack. Deserves full stars. Hard, but pros up great.
By Rafael Rovirosa
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 15, 2012

Pretty good climb. I like Colorado crack better. The jams on this one were pretty insecure as the crack is flaring.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Feb 20, 2012

I led this for the second time this past weekend. I remembered feeling sick after I topped out the first time. Same experience this time. I agree with the person above that nothing on this is much (if at all) harder than .10a,,, but see what you think when you get to the top. VERY, very good & memorable. My favorite in the corridor for sure!

Gear to BD #4 was totally comfortable, but anything less might result in the terror.

See if you can do it sans tape gloves without any blood!!! >:)
By will jimenez
From: joshua tree
Mar 23, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A must do!! But don't be Fooled(sandbagged) Long You rock!! Bachar no words needed!! together priceless! Takes great gear, 4 at top if you want to pucker up leave the 4 on the ground... Be Safe have fun!!

JTREE fuunnn!!
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 5, 2012

Hard for sure, and a tad grainy. I brought a #5 and #6, the #5 was nice to have.
By Jamie Henrichsen
From: Lake Morena, CA
Oct 27, 2013

Hated it. Juggy pulling down low to slopers to flared crack with insecure jams to finish off with some arm barring.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yeah... hate. However, it is a beautiful line and really just takes some technique. I brought a bunch of wider gear and found myself wishing I had more in the #0.4-#1 size instead. One #4 was the only bigger pro I thought necessary. Beautiful, long line with sustained, proper crack climbing. Really great but, yeah, a tad grity in places.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is 10b, and continuous and somewhat insecure up high even at that grade. Gear-wise, you don't even need a #4 but you might feel a bit fuzzier with one. It goes just fine without tape gloves but my hands hurt more than usual afterward (but no blood!).
By Nicole Yu
From: Los Angeles, California
Feb 10, 2014

insecure jams, lots of stemming. O/W was fun. sustained and burly for sure. good pros tho. when I first toproped two weeks ago, I liked it so much and couldn't wait to come back to lead. so glad it went well. Spiderman was supposed to be my 2nd 10a lead but turned out to be my 1st 10b lead. super excited.
By Johnny Y
From: California
Mar 4, 2014

Liked this more than Colorado Crack, would be a classic if it was in Yosemite. Pro could be tricky above the pod, but beyond that it protects well with 1-3" (4" near the top). The last section is just like what everybody says, so be prepared to crank a bit harder and lose a bit of skin.
By Tradoholic
Apr 17, 2014

Solid 10b, protects well with a c4 #4 and #5 at the top.