Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brush Turkey 
Captain Hook 
Chop, The 
Double Trouble 
Drumstick Direct 
East Side Story 
Easy Offwidth 
For Turkeys Only 
Gobble This 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack 
I Turkey/ Resurrection 
In Search of Unicorns 
Inner Reaches 
Jello Party 
Johnny Lat 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 
Left Side of the Key 
Live Fire 
Make the Cut 
Piece of Cake 
Quivering Quill 
Rasmussen Crack 
Spider Lady 
Squeeze Chimney 
Turkey in the Straw 
Turkey Turd 
Turkey's Delight 
Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 

Spider Lady 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Apr 6, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Located on the sunny side of the Turkey Tail, Spider Lady is an awesome route. It combines a little bit of everything, fingers, hands, and off width. Too bad getting on the route is such a hassle. See the description for the traverse.

Locate a left-facing corner 20 feet right of the start to Drumstick Direct. This is the right side of the pinnacle that goes up to Turkey Turd.

Pitch 1 - Climb the left-facing corner with good hand jamming near the top. Continue up above the corner a few feet and find the least sufferable spot to belay.

Pitch 2 - From the belay, climb down and to the right, traversing across a step, blank slab. Aim for a left-facing corner with a pin, fixed stopper, and crispy webbing. (This traverse is awful. Both the leader and the 2nd will have a tough time. Consider bringing something to leave so the pitch can be back cleaned and done with a tension traverse.) Continue up the superb, left-facing corner. It throws a little bit of everything at you from fingers, to hands, to off width. There are many exciting flakes and good foot holds as well. Belay from a nice ledge at the left side of a giant roof.

Pitch 3 - Step left and gain a long section of moderate, lower-angled cracks take you to a notch in the summit ridge of Turkey Tail.

Descent - Depending on the time of year, you have at least 2 options. If snow is not too bad on the dark side of Turkey Tail, rappel straight down the backside of the tail from a good station in the notch. If it looks like a post hole from hell in climbing shoes, another option is to traverse east out of the notch along the summit ridge of Turkey Tail. At the end of the ridge, look for a rappel station that is located down and to the north. This may consist of knotted slings jammed into cracks. Rappel into the wide chimney/gully with a single rope. Walk along the crest of the ridge for a few feet to the east. Another rappel should be encountered. It consists of knotted slings jammed in cracks and a slung boulder. A single rope rappel will land you near the base of a route named Double Trouble. The base of this route and your gear is just a few steps back to the west. Enjoy.


This route takes a little bit of everything. You will not need as much big gear as on either of its neighbors.

Comments on Spider Lady Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Aug 20, 2002

Yeaaa, the traverse should get your attention. Managed to do it with out incident yet swore I was going for the swing on several occasions. It will put some hair on your chest. I give the traverse 5.10. The rest of the climb is

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

+1 victim to the unexpected experience on the slab. I don't think it was 5.10, but when I reached the end of the traverse, I was happy I'd sunk a few pieces in before starting it, as I was looking at a hot and greasy last move in the sun... and a long and violent swing if I'd slipped.
The rest of the route is fun and varied - and the rock is mostly good.