Spice of Life 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Year Round |
| Submitted By: | Matt Nelson on Jun 6, 2009 |
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The beginning of the route
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Description Route climbs a shallow dihedral passing three cruxes. First crux is a thin hands/ off fingers crack. The seconds surmounts a small roof with good jams above. The third crux is reminiscent of the the last pitch of Swansons Arete, a super thin crack in an open book that disappears into a blank face. The whole route is well protected, albeit not by the cracks but by bolts.
Location From the top of the trail go left (east). Pass the box with carpeting. Find the top rope string that has the name of the route on it.
Protection Bolts and can be supplemented by small gear
First crux
| Me on the first crux
| Second crux, small roof to pull
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| Comments on Spice of Life |
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By Nich Cloward From: American Fork Sep 21, 2009 rating: 5.10a/b
| Very fun climb with a wide variety of climbing styles. Crack lie backs, mantles, stemming, smearing; it's got it all. The top is definitely the hardest part, I thought, but that could be bc I wasn't stemming enough. There is a huge ledge where some birds used to nest, or at least it appears that way, where the last crux starts. Hard core stemming up the last ten or so feet to the chains. |
By Will Hummel Jan 14, 2010 rating: 5.10c
| Great climb. Difficult for the grade, especially if (like me), stemming and laybacks are not your strongest skills. Don't give up at the top. It looks impossible, and it's certainly the most difficult part (especially because you're pumped by then). |
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