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David S. nears end of Spicebox, Larry E. belays at...
I liked the first bolt on pitch two, it protects groundfall potential on a ramp and the 3rd bolt is on great rock for clipping. Right after that it gets steep and cruxy. Well bolted and on great rock, it is one of the best I have been on in camelback.
It is next to one of the scariest routes on camelback, The Icebox 5.8x. It actually shares one of the bolts up high. The Icebox is the dihedral, very soft rock, just to this route's left.
Walk to the end of the Headwall and begin on the white granite just right of the dihedral/gully. P1 has 2 bolts, p2 has 12 bolts, p3 has 3 (?). Rap the route with single 60m rope. If you rap from the top, the first rap is a short one to the top of the 2nd pitch. Watch the ends at the second/longest rap.
12 quickdraws/runners, ss glue-in bolts and anchors.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
Best climb on Camelback! If soloing, don't use lower bolts for bottom pro with 60 m rope as it's a long way down...
|By manuel rangel|
Nov 11, 2009
I would recommend a 70m rope or doubles to ensure a safe return to the ground from the longest/2nd pitch.
My 4 star rating is based on other Camelback routes only.
From: Peoria, AZ
Dec 4, 2009
Fun climb, did not seem 5.10 quality. Middle of second pitch is crux. The rock will push you right, stay to the left and follow the bolts.
|By Nat Shultz|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 21, 2010
Super fun route. The best I've climbed on Camelback yet. Most quality rock as well. I'd call it a soft 5.10 and well protected. Have no reservations about it, just climb it an enjoy. A single 60m rope works great for the rap if you do it in 3.
Go get on it! Viva Camelback! And thanks Manny for another clasic!
From: Maricopa, AZ
Oct 27, 2010
Great climb for camelback, i don't know if i would put a 5.10b rating on this. I used a 70m rope because of the second pitch. I would not use a 60m, That would be cutting it kinda close.
From: Queen Creek AZ
Nov 23, 2010
Kudos to the FAs!! its a quality route for camel back. good work!! For the valley i'd say its a must at that grade.
Feb 5, 2012
Fun Route, bolts are good, well protected. Thanks for the climb!
We rappelled with a 60m from the bolts at the top of pitch 2, just made it to the ground.