Sperone  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  46.1884, 8.7601 Map Page Views:  42. Good page?    Administrators:  Dan Flynn, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Colin Winter on Jul 25, 2012 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

In the steeper upper half of Sperone

Description 

Tame, pleasant slab climbing on the same bomber gneiss found elsewhere in the region, with routes from one up to 12 pitches.

The area is west-facing, and accordingly gets sun from the late morning until later in the day (depending on season - in the shorter days of the year it gets a lot less sun, particularly the lower part).

Due to the good protection and ease of access, it tends to be (very) popular.

Both the Plaisir süd and SAC Ticino guidebooks have comprehensive coverage of the routes here.

Getting There 

Right next to Monte Garzo, towards the entrance of the valley. From the village of Ponte Brolla, follow the road a very short distance into the Maggia valley. Park on the side of the road near the large, red pedestrian bridge and head up a trail that takes off into the forest just across the road from where the bridge is. Follow it up to a large power / telephone mast, and further to the base of the wall.

Featured Route For Sperone

Sperone 6a 5.10a  International : Europe : ... : Sperone

Pleasant, very moderate slab route. Extremely homogeneous (1 6a sequence that can be aided, all other pitches are 5a-5b). The upper half steepens up a bit and provides a bit more variety....[more]   Browse More Classics in International