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Spelunk Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Condi T 
Dermatome T 
Gandhi T 
Grand Central Station T 
Old Dogs New Trick T 
Paper Training T 
Pussy Cat's Hot Licks T 
Sky Shot T 
Wrist Ranger T 
Unsorted Routes:

Spelunk Spire  


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Location: 41.17823, -105.34848 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,003
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 8, 2005  with updates from Skip Harper
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Spelunk Spire is one of the overlooked backwoods crags behind Reynolds Hill. Spelunk Spire hosts a variety of shorter pitches, from the spiral ... scramble to stiff stout cracks which barely accept digits.

Per Skip Harper: this rather extensive formation was known in the climbing community at least as far back as Jim Halfpenny's "A Climber's Guide to Southeastern Wyoming" (1975). It is actually visible from almost any high point in Vedauwoo, appearing to be a part of Reynolds Complex when viewed from Central Vedauwoo. However it's east across a valley from Reynolds. The 'spire' was first summited by negotiating the 'backside" (southern exposure) full of small caves, jumbled rocks, and declivities', and a 'register' was placed on top. The remainder of the formation extends from here as a southwesterly, declining shoulder/wall which terminates in several hundred yards at or near the well-known climb 'Old Dog's New Trick'. Some climbs were first done on aid, remnants of which can be found if you look close enough; however, none had names that were recorded or persisted. Later, several lines were freed and named along the southwest wall lower in the valley including Wrist Ranger and Paper Training. Just who coined the name of the crag has been lost in time, as have many crags and climbs of similar circumstance. It was NOT named for the climb 'Spelunk Spiral', an easy line of least resistance to the top first recorded in "Heel and Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo" (Harper and Kelman, 1994).

Getting There 

Begin your approach as for Reynold's Hill, by crossing the creek. Head right paralleling the creek, but crossing high ground above the creek, before descending near the creek bed willows. After passing distinct views of Old Devil's Playground across the creek to the right, including the arch of the distinctive Muscle and Fitness, look for a very faint path heading up and left through a small open rising field and then sparse trees. The trail quickly becomes distinct. After several hundred yards, Spelunk Spire will come into view across a meadow.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Spelunk Spire:
Old Dogs New Trick   V5 6C     Trad, Boulder, 20'   
Grand Central Station   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Wrist Ranger   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Paper Training   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Spelunk Spire

Featured Route For Spelunk Spire
Bart Cubrich standing at the start of Pussy Cat's ...

Pussy Cat's Hot Licks 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  WY : Vedauwoo : Spelunk Spire
This is an excellent, technical, and desperate crack. Lieback a discouragingly thin crack, find feet out left, and don't let them pop! The barn door will spit you off if you aren't careful! The crux is the first 10 feet, followed by better and better liebacks as you get higher up. If flared hand jams suit your fancy, they are an alternative for the last 10 feet....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

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