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Unsorted Routes:

Speedway Boogie 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,076
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Speedway Boogie climbs the crack to a roof/jug and...

Description 

This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda. From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way.

Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt. Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack. Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top.

As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag.

Location 

Starts just left of the Fanfair arete and 15' right of Free to Think.

Protection 

Five bolts, ring anchors.


Photos of Speedway Boogie Slideshow Add Photo
Speedway boogie
Speedway boogie
better view of the top portion. Crack on lower right is the start
better view of the top portion. Crack on lower rig...

Comments on Speedway Boogie Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 27, 2008

Still one of my favorites at Leda. This time I skipped the stick clip for the start and jammed the crack instead of laybacking; felt pretty secure, but it was still nice to grab the huge hero jug to clip that first bolt.
By Swamp Cookie
From: da Bayou
Aug 14, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is one of my favorites also. I head straight for this route everytime I go to Leda. Excellent warm up with a great top out ledge. Don't forget to check out the view.
By jdmatt
Oct 3, 2009

this is a leda classic. warm up on fanfair and then lead this one. stick clip, stopper in the crack, or just do the boulder problem (V1) and clip. all options are great.
By marc girardot
Nov 7, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Highly recommend stick clipping or protecting the crack the first time around. Seems like a breeze but it was like a hand came out of the wall and pushed me off. Luckily the ground is flat here.
By highneed
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this route this weekend as a well protected gear route, almost entirely on passive gear. Pretty much follows the bolt line except for a 5-6 deviation at the 4th bolt to get some gear in.
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 5, 2013

This was the first sport route I ever led, back in the summer of 2000, when I used to live in Chatty.....As I remember it, a 5.7+, work up the crack, reach overhead for the solid hold, pull then push up onto the ledge for the first bolt, cake walk after that.
By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
Oct 5, 2013

Fantastic route. Don't TR, too much rope rub.