Speed Racer 5.8+ X
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Guy H. on Oct 11, 2003 |
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The route...
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Description This climb starts 50ft to the right of Ultraman 5.8+. The climb starts in a left facing corner in black varnish. A small piece can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Follow a total of 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbing is just a good as Ultraman, and a little more runout. There is groundfall potential between 30-40ft on the route. Be careful. Rap with to ropes.
Protection Draws, option small cam low on the route
View of Speed Racer from uphill.
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By Danny Inman From: Arvada Nov 27, 2006
| I led this the other day and compared to Clutch Cargo, I thought this one was less secure and more sustained. The route is very long, the bolts are a long ways apart, and the moves are classic palms down slab-I really liked this route. |
By 46and2 From: Las Vegas, NV Jan 3, 2007 rating: 5.8+ PG13
| Superb route but will need some new bolts sometime soon as a couple of them are sticking out from the wall a wee bit. Speed Racer is like Ultraman on the small slabby stuff that's insecure and super fun; great route just don't fall. Maybe a PG 13 rating but no way that is a "X" rating in my book. Awesome Slabba Dabba (must) Do |
By ashcan Jan 31, 2007 rating: 5.8+ X
| I would call this an X if you are not totally competent with 5.6ish climbing (the harder stuff is protected). Also the 2nd bolt B4 the long run-out section is loose. |
By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Jan 31, 2007
| The "X" rating is for the ground fall potential between 30-40ft. I remember looking down after clipping the 2nd? bolt and seeing the ground fall potential. A "PG-13" rating is a sandbag on this one. The climbing is easy, but holds do break. After clipping the bolt at the 30-40ft level, there are enough bolts to keep a "PG-13" or "R" rating. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Apr 15, 2007 rating: 5.8 PG13
| 5.8 - very nice sustained smearing moves past the last few bolts. Not an X - remember that the potential for a fall takes into account the difficulty of the climbing - the big runout is quite casual, and actually fun with the runout. I'd be more worried about getting up to the first bolt - after all, the opening gear placement(s) are in sandstone. 2 ropes needed to reach the ground. |
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Feb 3, 2010
| On Feb 3rd, 2010, the LVCLC replaced 8 protection bolts and the anchor (2 bolts) on this route. All new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece with Fixe hangers. |
By Sol Cantwell May 29, 2012 rating: 5.8+ X
| This is UBER classic and super run out. With all the safe 5.8's in this place go somewhere else if you are just starting to lead 5.8 or 5.9. A 60m rope will not get you to the bottom if you go all the way to the top, you can walk off to the left pretty easily though. I was FREAKED out. This route does have ground fall potential. Others have said a PG-13 rating.. .I guess if you don't hit your head its PG13 because you only break your leg or back... |
By BarryO Jan 5, 2013
| from the hand traverse heading to the first bolt to the top a great sustained route!! great crack at base for belayer pro. runout for sure but lays out nicely. |
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