Specter 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Brian Smoot, Mike Perkins |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | spring summer fall |
| Submitted By: | tenesmus on Sep 4, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Specter topo
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Description This is a nice line. A steep crux, a vertical crux, an off-vertical crux. Some of the best, most crisp crimps I've laid hands on.
AKA: Black Power
Location Look for the black chain/bolt anchor below the black streak. You won't be able to see the climber on the upper crux from here so we added a two bolt belay off to the left on a good ledge. If you go over there, please watch your rope carefully as you lower and clean (especially the bottom bolt).
Alternatively, we added a belay 25 feet left on a ledge that allows you to see the climber for the whole climb. I haven't belayed this climb from over there but its just an option.
Protection 10 or 12 bolts to a bolted belay. Bring a couple of long runners for the middle and start. 70M rope to descend.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 4, 2010
| Its Black Power...its rad...and its no handbag! |
By tenesmus
Sep 5, 2010
|
Its Specter.
Of course, you could think of it like this:
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By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 5, 2010
| Jules: Describe what Marsellus Wallace looks like!
Brett: What?
Jules: Say 'what' again. Say 'what' again, I dare you, I double dare you motherfucker, say what one more Goddamn time! |
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 5, 2010
| Jules: Mmm-mmmm. That is a tasty burger. Vincent, ever have a Big Kahuna Burger?
[Vincent shakes his head]
Jules: Wanna bite? They're real tasty.
Vincent: Ain't hungry.
Jules: Well, if you like burgers give 'em a try sometime. I can't usually get 'em myself because my girlfriend's a vegitarian which pretty much makes me a vegitarian. But I do love the taste of a good burger. Mm-mm-mm. You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France?
Brett: No.
Jules: Tell 'em, Vincent.
Vincent: A Royale with cheese.
Jules: A Royale with cheese! You know why they call it that?
Brett: Because of the metric system?
Jules: Check out the big brain on Brett! You're a smart motherfucker. That's right. The metric system. |
By vacano
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| Full on "porn star" route! (per Ten Sleep guide scale) |
By John Steiger
Aug 15, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| One of the very best pitches I’ve done in Utah (at least those I remember). It has it all, great rock, super position, superlative setting, well-bolted, and really tricky cruxes that keep coming. I could see this being 11d if one were well-tuned on steep slab, but I’m not, so… Uh, Ten -- 5.11c, really? |
By tenesmus
Aug 27, 2012
| As this route has gotten more traffic the feedback is that its probably, "Really friendly 5.12" so I guess it should be graded .12a. Psyched people are coming up here. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Aug 28, 2012
| - mental note* - tenesmus is a sandbagger...
|
By John Steiger
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| It might have something to do with Ten’s NBA-small-forward height, but sandbagging does seem to be popular among some of the current crop of LCC first ascensionists (cough, Andy Ross, cough). |
By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 29, 2012
| I heard the British climb with rockets in their pants?
-Fight Grade Creep- |
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.12-
| Very nice route. Nothing to complain about other than a few strangely-placed bolts and the mega-sandbag rating on this site. Also, don't climb this with anything shorter than a 70m. |
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