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Special Forces 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Vernon Scarborough
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Tough mantle at the start... circa 1996

Description 

This is a serious but great route for those who enjoy thin holds.

Move up a short, steep wall, clip the first bolt, and then pull onto small holds on the slab. Several thin slab moves bring you up to a precarious mantle onto a small, sloping ledge (you wouldn't want to fall from here). Stand up, clip the second bolt, then make hard moves into the corner (crux). Superb stemming takes you up the corner - small gear (RPs and offsets) backs up the fixed pin. At the stance below the final headwall, get good gear - RPs, small cam, and/or Ball Nuts. Then enjoy good, moderately difficult climbing up the headwall to a rhodo ledge.

Location 

This is the route immediately uphill (left) of the Borrowed Time corner. There is a big block on the ground; look above this and find a bolt on the slab.

Protection 

Bring a few quickdraws for the bolts and fixed pin. Bring some small gear (RPs, offsets, Ball Nuts, small cams, etc) to protect the corner. Cold shuts up on the rhodo ledge for the single-rope rap to the ground.


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By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Apr 19, 2012

Whow Oh Whow, what a fantastic ROute!! A blood pump lead and a excellent route to go on TR! Bolted protection leads to small gear up high! Balancey and Technie climbing for fun all the way up!

To set up a TR climb the first pitch of Hindu Kush and then trend far right to bolted anchors!

  • *GNARLY**
By Rick Carpenter
From: Banner Elk, NC
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

A great lead, certainly worth doing