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Spearhead Conditions

Original Post
Josh Giblin · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 20

I'm looking to do my first alpine climb to Spearhead the first weekend in June. Can anyone report on the approach conditions or those on the peak? Snow may be a deterrent...

Thanks!

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Snow on the route ?? Or the 10 feet of it still on the trail in ???

Charles Danforth · · L'ville, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 170

I can't report on Glacier Gorge per se, but there is still a disturbing amount of snow up in the Front Range. We were up near Eldora yesterday and got most of the way to Rollins Pass. The east facing couloirs on Radiobeacon Pk, S. Arapaho, and Jasper (11-13k') still looked like full winter conditions. Another few weeks will help, but it may be a very late season this year.

villlein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

I would expect you have to wait until the second or third week of june just for the rock to not have snow/water runoff on certain routes. and you will still have to cross snow patches on the approach during that time of the year.

the best conditions will be mid to late august and you still have to keep an eye on storms, they still can drop snow in august up there.

I havent been up there yet, but I know loch vale is good to go, but they probably got snow from the last storm system (with the tornadoes).

Patrick ODonnell · · Denver, co · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 330

It's been a late spring. As stated in the other replies it is still winter like in the high country. I resently soled Kieners on Longs and it was desperate conditions. While Spearhead has more sun exposure it will still be wet and probably icy. The desent could be tricky.
All in all it will be a challenging day for sure.
Cheers

Ross Swanson · · Pinewood Springs · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 2,522

I added a conditions photo 25MAY08 that will give you an idea of what you will encounter, see Chiefheads NWest Face.

Saw ice on first and second pitch of Big Mac and ice on 2+ pitches of route to its right. Yea!
--Ross

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Hmmm... "from the summit of Arrowhead." You guys didn't climb the Hourglass by chance did you???

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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