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Spearhead
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Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,922
Submitted By: fossana on Jul 9, 2013

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Chiefshead from Spearhead.

Description 

If you're looking for a Park traverse but want something shorter with a bit more vertical climbing and a bit less bushwhacking than Walk in the Park, check out Spearhead to Long's.


Location 

Approach
From the Glacier Gorge trailhead take the established trail to Black Lake. From the lake follow the climbers' trail east above treeline. Head south across the meadows to the base of Spearhead.

Route
Spearhead
Choose your own adventure up Spearhead. More popular options include:

N Ridge (5.6)
E Prow (5.9)
Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
The Barb (5.10-)
All Two Obvious (5.11d R)
Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
Stone Monkey (5.12a)

Chiefshead
From the summit of Spearhead, continue along the ridge. The most direct line is to take the Central Rib (5.7) or a variation thereof. One could zigzag up the ramp systems if easier climbing is desired.

Pagoda
Now the real fun begins. Follow the obvious knife edge ridgeline along the W Ridge (5.7) of Pagoda.

Longs
From the summit of Pagoda, pick a line to Longs to suit your desired level of difficulty (class 3+).

Descent
From the Keyhole Route on Long's, cross-country down the talus slopes (e.g. the Trough) back into Glacier Gorge. Follow the trail out the way you came.

Water
Depending on the season it may be difficult to find water on the route proper unless there is snow and/or runoff. Plan accordingly.

Answers to FAQ
From messages:

  • I started with the North Ridge of Spearhead and did not bring a rope. Most of the route is not sustained.
  • I don't remember my car-to-car time. It took me ~9 hrs from the trailhead to the summit of Long's at a casual pace and having done only the last 500' previously.


Protection 

No fixed gear or anchors.



Photos of Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Will heading up Long's.
Will heading up Long's.
Hand traversing fun.
Hand traversing fun.
Longs summit!
Longs summit!
Black Lake.
Black Lake.
Bypassing one of the towers on the south side.
Bypassing one of the towers on the south side.
The path forward from the summit of Chiefshead.
The path forward from the summit of Chiefshead.
Spearhead.
Spearhead.
Glacier Gorge.
Glacier Gorge.
Ribbon Falls.
Ribbon Falls.
McHenry's.
McHenry's.
Looking back at the W Ridge of Pagoda.
Looking back at the W Ridge of Pagoda.
Looking down the N Ridge of Spearhead.
Looking down the N Ridge of Spearhead.
Fabby starting the W Ridge of Pagoda.
Fabby starting the W Ridge of Pagoda.
Looking back at Chiefshead.
Looking back at Chiefshead.
One of the easier bits on the W Ridge.
One of the easier bits on the W Ridge.
Glacier Gorge trail.
Glacier Gorge trail.
Final summit push.
Final summit push.
The buttress that marks the Central Rib start.
The buttress that marks the Central Rib start.
Snack break before Long's.
Snack break before Long's.
Looking back at Spearhead.
Looking back at Spearhead.
We joined up with the Keyhole route.
We joined up with the Keyhole route.
For me the crux on Chiefshead.
For me the crux on Chiefshead.
Back down the Keyhole.
Back down the Keyhole.
The now diminutive Spearhead.
The now diminutive Spearhead.
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
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