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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Whiplash T 

Speakeasy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brooks, Stuberg and Harrison 1981
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 26, 2007

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The beginning of this route ascends a dirty left facing corner to a scary looking flake. Carefully climb around the flake and up a short chimney to a ledge on the right and belay. The second pitch continues up a right facing corner to the top. This route has some loose rock and a lot of lichen on it.

Location 

The start of this route is located behind a tree about 6' left of Muscular Dystrophy. Just look for a precarious flake about 20' up. Walk and down climb to the north to get down.

Protection 

Standard rack of nuts and cams.


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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jan 21, 2009

This climb is one of the few in Eldo that I refuse to do again. Horrible! Loose and awkward and quite unenjoyable. I suggest P1 of Bushwhack Crack as an alternative, then hit Laughing At The Moon as a finish.