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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Knight's Move 
Laughing at the Moon 
Ministry of Fear 
Muscular Dystrophy 
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Sirens of Titan 
Speakeasy 
Superstone 
Sylvia's Bush 
Whiplash 

Speakeasy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brooks, Stuberg and Harrison 1981
Page Views: 232
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 26, 2007
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The beginning of this route ascends a dirty left facing corner to a scary looking flake. Carefully climb around the flake and up a short chimney to a ledge on the right and belay. The second pitch continues up a right facing corner to the top. This route has some loose rock and a lot of lichen on it.


Location 

The start of this route is located behind a tree about 6' left of Muscular Dystrophy. Just look for a precarious flake about 20' up. Walk and down climb to the north to get down.


Protection 

Standard rack of nuts and cams.



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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jan 21, 2009

This climb is one of the few in Eldo that I refuse to do again. Horrible! Loose and awkward and quite unenjoyable. I suggest P1 of Bushwhack Crack as an alternative, then hit Laughing At The Moon as a finish.