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Routes in Spazzacaldeira
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La Fiamma S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lasciamilì 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nasi Goreng 6a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Northeast Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Steinfresser 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Via Felice 6a S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Via Leni 6b S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | R Bösch, H Furrer |
| Page Views: | 934 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Winter on Jun 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
This route has a somewhat more alpine flair than some others in the area, both with respect to the line and the protection. It has its moments, particularly through some very interesting terrain in the second and third pitches, but also some less than stellar sections though gullies and corners.
The pitches range in difficulty between 5b and 6a.
The pitches range in difficulty between 5b and 6a.
Location
Roughly in the middle of the climbing area, this route begins at one of the tongues that protudes out.
Descent is by abseil from the ridge, albeit not with the best abseilpiste. The anchors are suboptimal and there are lots of opportunities to get the ropes stock. It might be better to traverse the ridge in one direction or another to use another, better line of descent.
Descent is by abseil from the ridge, albeit not with the best abseilpiste. The anchors are suboptimal and there are lots of opportunities to get the ropes stock. It might be better to traverse the ridge in one direction or another to use another, better line of descent.
Protection
The fixed protection in this route is a bit spaced and somewhat aged. The anchors are good, and except for the first pitch, there are good opportunities to complement the fixed gear with mobile placements. The bolting up the first slabby pitch is meager and theres nothing to be done about it.
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