Spazzacaldeira-Nasi Goreng 6a
Brilliant crack climbing in the upper half of the ...
This route has a somewhat more alpine flair than some others in the area, both with respect to the line and the protection. It has its moments, particularly through some very interesting terrain in the second and third pitches, but also some less than stellar sections though gullies and corners.
The pitches range in difficulty between 5b and 6a.
Roughly in the middle of the climbing area, this route begins at one of the tongues that protudes out.
Descent is by abseil from the ridge, albeit not with the best abseilpiste. The anchors are suboptimal and there are lots of opportunities to get the ropes stock. It might be better to traverse the ridge in one direction or another to use another, better line of descent.
The fixed protection in this route is a bit spaced and somewhat aged. The anchors are good, and except for the first pitch, there are good opportunities to complement the fixed gear with mobile placements. The bolting up the first slabby pitch is meager and there’s nothing to be done about it.
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