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Routes in Batman Rock
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Backbone Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bat Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Batman's Girdle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Carpenter's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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China Loving Blues T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clowntime is Over T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Coors Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Dark Night, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gobs of Blobs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hand Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hand Over Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Marlin Alley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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No Known Cure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riddler Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rockheads T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Spaziergang T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Station to Station T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Summer Breeze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | George Hurley & Charlie Fowler, '71 |
| Page Views: | 1,618 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Sep 20, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Spaziergang is German for "walkway". This is a fairly obvious crack on the east face containing a small pine tree about 80' up. Right of this crack is a large right facing corner (Carpenter's Corner). The first pitch also starts about 30' right of Bat Crack.
P1 (100'): The crack with the tree does not reach the ground. Move right under an overhang to find a short, steep crack. Crank up this (5.7) and move up and left to reach the base of the crack with the tree. Follow this fun crack (5.6) past the tree, then traverse right to a small belay ledge about 30' beyond the tree.
One can also start below the crack, step over the overhang and up a steep face, but this is much more dangerous for the leader as there is no protection at all for the first 20' and it is probably at least 5.8 (the party behind us opted for this start). It is also possible to start even farther left, as for Bat Crack: climb up a knobby face, and about 20' up traverse straight right on a line of knobs to the base of the crack with the tree (no pro but only about 5.5).
A large number of slings and rappel rings indicate that rappelling off or toproping the first pitch from the tree is popular. This tree is not large and shows some wear from all of this.
P2 (120'): Move up, then traverse right into a dihedral at the left edge of a large roof band. Climb straight up this over the roof, then continue up and somewhat right to the top of the rock (5.8). The rock on this pitch is a bit grainy, and it may be easier if you go farther right than we did. Near the end of the pitch we did a scary step right into an undercling.
P1 (100'): The crack with the tree does not reach the ground. Move right under an overhang to find a short, steep crack. Crank up this (5.7) and move up and left to reach the base of the crack with the tree. Follow this fun crack (5.6) past the tree, then traverse right to a small belay ledge about 30' beyond the tree.
One can also start below the crack, step over the overhang and up a steep face, but this is much more dangerous for the leader as there is no protection at all for the first 20' and it is probably at least 5.8 (the party behind us opted for this start). It is also possible to start even farther left, as for Bat Crack: climb up a knobby face, and about 20' up traverse straight right on a line of knobs to the base of the crack with the tree (no pro but only about 5.5).
A large number of slings and rappel rings indicate that rappelling off or toproping the first pitch from the tree is popular. This tree is not large and shows some wear from all of this.
P2 (120'): Move up, then traverse right into a dihedral at the left edge of a large roof band. Climb straight up this over the roof, then continue up and somewhat right to the top of the rock (5.8). The rock on this pitch is a bit grainy, and it may be easier if you go farther right than we did. Near the end of the pitch we did a scary step right into an undercling.
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