|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 220'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||George Hurley & Charlie Fowler, '71|
|Submitted By:||George Bell on Sep 21, 2002|
|Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Spaziergang||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
|Can be done as a single pitch with a 70M rope- take a lot of slings with a standard rack. The upper headwall crux will be both difficult and poorly protected for leaders below 5'8" or so. My 5'5" partner had to run it out on less than ideal holds. Doing it her way, we believed it was closer to 5.10 than 5.8.|
By Keith Leary
Sep 10, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
|I agree with TB. I have been on this twice. Once in 2001 and another 2 days ago. I could not find the 5.8 way through the upper bulge. The way we went was hard and crumbling i.e. cat litter. A good route. You can rap off the block below the bulge on the far right. This will keep it 5.8. I did that the first time.|
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
This is a pretty good route to learn a little about multi-pitch climbing. I led it with a small standard rack. I would have appreciated a little more gear but that is just something I'll have to acquire over time.
The first pitch is easy, short and a good warm up. The tree-anchor is bomber as are the slings and rings around it.
The second pitch is a little sketchy. I stayed right like the book told me to and found the bulge to be far more difficult than a 5.8 (there were several 5.10+ moves in a row at the bulge). The rock is very gritty and slabby with decent smearing for feet but nearly zero hand holds.
My advice: Trust your feet. They are stickier than you think.
Decent: Walk down the Eastern side of the summit where you will soon see cairns and a trail that guide you back to the bottom of the south facing side of the rock.
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 21, 2011
The slings on the tree are quite worn/faded though there are a lot of them; if you're headed up there, it could be worth cutting off some/all of that tat, poor tree. Above the tree there are a couple of large boulders wedged into the cracks, probably don't want to place gear behind or pull too hard on these.
Once above the first "crux" shown in the photos already posted, we opted for the straight up variation, through a series of overlaps with the aforementioned chicken-head; definitely felt harder than 5.8 but, then again, I don't think that's the route. The party before us continued to traverse right, below this section, on much easier terrain to a nice ledge; I think they went straight up from there and kept the climbing at the grade. The more direct variation requires either a strenuous mantle onto the chicken-head or using underclings and crimps to get your right foot onto the chicken-head and then rocking up onto it. Good gear awaits above. There is also a bunch of tat around a large, horizontal pinch more or less directly above this final crux. Could rap from there, probably, but probably just quicker/safer/easier to walk off at that point. Fun climbing on overall good stone!