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 ADVANCED
Buttress of Cracks - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blade Runner T 
East Buttress Gully T 
Low Pressure T 
Nawab T 
Plague, The T 
Shake Down T 
Spatula T 
Spatula - Direct Start T 
Warm Up T 

Spatula - Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Clark Jacobs & Lisa Fry, August 1992
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Eric Foltz on Aug 6, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: 3 bolts--in true Suicide style. Lucas Dunn's phot...

Description 

Route starts just to the right of Nawab with a bolt protecting a thin crux move. Move up and right to join Spatula at its first bolt.

Rating and "R" are from the book. Cruxes are well protected but the second bolt is pretty high up.

Location 

Just to the right of Nawab at the far right side of the buttress of cracks. This is the first face you see coming up the trail.

Protection 

Three bolts, slings to tie off big knob and flake, small cam optional.


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By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, Ca
May 27, 2012

I would say that the crux is actually COMMITTING to the 3rd/last bolt (if you count the bolt on the 11a section down low). It's a reach and I had to really trust my left foot to make that clip--once I had a draw on that one, the rest was cruiser--hard but not terrifying. If you miss that clip, you're looking at a nasty, bumpy fall past the middle bolt. As for protecting the upper section by slinging the knob--better to put a cam or nut under the flake--once you're at the knob the climb's over and a sling on that would be pointless.