|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]|
|FA:||Pamela Shanti Pack|
|Season:||fall, summer, spring|
|Submitted By:||Patrick Kingsbury on Jun 5, 2010|
|Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Spatial Relations||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 11, 2010
|Am I having deja vu, or was this route submission and comments added to MP a year or two ago?|
By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 29, 2011
|I tried this climb a few years ago and got nowhere. Learning the rating helps me understand why, and seeing the photos has started me on inverted sit-ups. Congrats to those who sent it, it sure is cool looking.|
By Handsome B. Wonderful
May 9, 2011
|Okay...I've got to say it. I have been out of the loop for a while, but I'm like 99% certain that John Varco did the FA of this thing. What's the deal. If I'm wrong then sorry. Am I wrong?|
By John McNamee
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 27, 2011
|I've deleted some comments that were irrelevant.|
By Wade Griffith
Nov 4, 2011
|That flake to the left of this thing looks wild. Wonder how solid it is?|
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014
|Pamela is sick strong. I imagine her offwith curriculum vitae is unparalleled by any other female in the world.|
From: Rock City, Georgia
Jan 30, 2016
Wade - not very solid. You could bolt it and still die IMO (more accurately, kill your belayer I suppose)...it moves if you start to barely reef on it.
Regarding the upper comment, yeah Varco a very good offwidth climber, but this was a hair beyond his paygrade, at least for FA. Maybe he repeated it, I don't know....
Many people vied for this FA. Scarpelli, Varco, Takeda, et al. This route was erroneously labeled as being in Tuolumne in an old Alpinist mag.
There's about 2 feet of this route that are very fiendish (the rest can be done at .11-12 minus-ish IMO)....
...but that's probably most Voo routes in a nutshell....