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Spastic Funk 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 360', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Vince Romney 2004 (pitch 1) Romney, Calderone (pitches 2, 3)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Oct 2, 2004

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One more roof to go.


This route shares the start of Unemployment Line, about 20' left of Osiris and ascends 120' up the blocky corners on the sides of the multiple roofs to a lone cedar tree. There are still some loose areas, and thus helmets should be considered mandatory until it cleans up. I really liked the aesthetics of this climb, particularly as I moved past the roofs. It was steep and exposed, with positive moves throughout with the occasional thin move thrown in. It required a good lead head, but was a lot of fun.

A reasonable facsimile of a belay stance can be fashioned from the two-trunk tree at the base of a dirty groove at the bottom of Unemployment Line. The leader starts about 10' upslope from the belay where a short left-angling crack leads to a dirt stance about 15' above the belay. At the stance, you may want to flip the rope over the trees to reduce potential rope drag, but this does require your second to climb the dirty groove to attain the stance. From the stance, move up through the first two bolts of Unemployment Line (use long runners to avoid rope drag). Prior to the third bolt of "Unemployment Line" (don't clip, as the rope drag is stunning if you do) move right to the seam/crack that moves up the right side of the next two roofs. After the second roof, move up and left of the third roof. Then continue up to the right of the next roof, and to the left of the final roof. Once on top, angle left to the lone tree atop the formation, and belay. "Rappel from the rappel ring on the three rounds of 9 mil rope around the tree using two 60 meter ropes, orcontinue on to pitch two.

Pitch two (5.5) follows the left slanting ramp atop thepillar of pitch one to a smooth shield on the right(50'). Ascend the shield and then move up and left to the top of a largepillar and set up a trad belay (100').

Pitch three (5.6) moves horizontally right from the belay,around the base of a large block via a horizontal handcrack (40'). At the right edge of the block, movestraight up, following the major weaknesses to an exitvia a delicate high-step, and belay from the obvioushorn (80'). Walk off the descent trail to the right."


Quickdraws for the first two bolts of Unemployment Line, and then use everything from micro-nuts to a #3 Camalot for the rest of the route. There are a few runout sections where pro is not available.

Photos of Spastic Funk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap Cleaning on the way down after the FA.  Hey, w...
Rap Cleaning on the way down after the FA. Hey, w...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Spastic Funk
BETA PHOTO: View of Spastic Funk
Rock Climbing Photo: Leaving the Unemployment Line start to start the F...
Leaving the Unemployment Line start to start the F...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the belay of Spastic Funk
BETA PHOTO: View from the belay of Spastic Funk
Rock Climbing Photo: Searching for gear placements
Searching for gear placements
Rock Climbing Photo: The top-out option to Spastic Funk
BETA PHOTO: The top-out option to Spastic Funk

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By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

Bravo, to the FA'ists. Climbed this yesterday. A creative new line, and NO NEW BOLTS. Turning the roofs is fun as heck! Nice eye mr. Romney, keep the clean new lines coming!!
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 20, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Spastic Funk, oh what a name, but aptly so. This line isn't quite as runout as Vince thought; however, with that said, the protection IS tricky to find, and sometimes consisting of shaky placements. I did enjoy this lead (I had promised Vince to do this since he FA'd it). As Vince says, there are loose sections and we almost killed him with a plate-sized flake, so wear your helmets (belayers for sure), and test your holds. This line will clean up, and the moves are exciting over the roofs. Not a lead for a 5.9 leader. Oh, and finally, I didn't have a need for the brass, but red and yellow Metolius were integral.
By Vince Romney
Jun 20, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Now that I've done this a couple times, I think I was a bit mellow on the rating. There are definitely some 5.9 moves on this, and it requires some good focus and placement skill on the part of the leader. That being said, I also like the climb alot more now, and am giving it two stars. We cleaned a lot of the "Funk" out this last trip, and it will only get better. A few more trips, some chains at the top, and it will be a fun, solid 5.9 trad climb.

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