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Sparky And The Firedog 
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Sparky And The Firedog 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)
Season: Spring thru Fall
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 12, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Initially easy scrambling leads to a sort of headwall. Get in some gear and pull up and over the bulge to gain the nice corner system above. What was it one of my old partners used to say...continuously interesting.


Location 

Sparky starts just right of the big clearing in the center of the wall (where routes like Morning's Mourning and Orange Out Direct are located). Climb up next to a big tree that's growing into the rock about ten feet off the ground. This is the left route that goes through the bulging wall.


Protection 

Nuts, small TCUs up to #2 Camalot size. A #.4 or #.5 will protect the bulgy crux.



Photos of Sparky And The Firedog Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up Sparky and Answered Prayers.  Obscurity and Fresh Air to the right, Penicillin Debut (TR) up the arete in the middle right half.  Someone should get a better exposed shot and replace this one.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Sparky and Answered Prayers. Obscurity...
Comments on Sparky And The Firedog Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Coats
Sep 1, 2007

First ascent: Dugald Bremner, Larry Coats (late 70's)

By Paul Davidson
Apr 22, 2008

One fine climb, highly recommended.

By David Arthur Sampson
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One of my most favorite climbs at the overlook (so far!).

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013

An excellent pitch for the grade. Marginal pieces off the ledge give you some comfort before sinking in a bomber #.5 just below the actual crux. Enjoy the crisp 5.8 finger crack to the top. Definitely on the classic 5.10 list for the crag, but not a good first 5.10- lead.