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A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.
To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
23 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sparks Wall:
Generic Spark 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Skraps 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Sparkling Schloob 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Sparkling Zygote 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Sparkling Gefilte Fish 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Divide and Conquer 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Unknown 5.10 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 90'
All That Remains 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Sparkling Prom Date 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Jump Start 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 60'
Sparkling Schnitzel 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Slings and Arrows 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Jupiter Crack 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 130'
Low Spark 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
The Hawk 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Sparks of the Tempest 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Go Sparky Go 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Ici c`est bienne 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Old Sparky 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Sparkling Spurs 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For Sparks Wall
Sparkling Schloob 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall
Can either do direct start through the bushes or do a slightly less direct up the block at the bottom and traverse left into the crack proper. It widens from #3 Camalots to #6 Camalots and then pinches back down at the top by the anchors. As far as I know this is the shortest route to the rim, this requires the party to climb easy 5.5ish terrain past the anchors for about 5 ft. Might be one chock stone that's a wee bit loose down lower although easily avoided and not easily shifted o...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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