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Sparks Wall
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All That Remains 
Divide and Conquer 
Generic Spark 
Go Sparky Go 
Hawk, The 
Ici c`est bienne 
Jump Start 
Jupiter Crack 
Low Spark 
Old Sparky 
Rowdy 
Skraps 
Slings and Arrows 
Spark It Up Sparky 
Sparkling Gefilte Fish 
Sparkling Prom Date 
Sparkling Schloob 
Sparkling Schnitzel 
Sparkling Spurs 
Sparkling Zygote 
Sparks of the Tempest 
Tom Thumb 
Unknown 5.10 
Unsorted Routes:

Sparks Wall 


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Elevation: 4,500'
Page Views: 8,552. Good page?   
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2006

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the sweet ruins to the right of the wall. be very ...

Description 

A reasonably good cliff you can be alone at, with a goodly number of good routes! 5 routes on this cliff face North, and about 10 more face Southeast. The latter getting sunlight from sunrise to nearly sunset in the fall and winter. The Bloom book mentions that some of these routes are dusty for lack of travel, as this cliff is relatively unvisited. In reality, while this may be a contributor, the main cause is that the rock is softer here than in some other areas and yields more dust to rain and wind. Still, some routes are quite good, and as Bloom implies, you are likely to have them all to yourself. Of the routes I tried, I found "Go Sparky Go" to be the best for its unique quality of going almost horizontal on a flat vertical wall, "Low Spark" the best for its length (P1: 155', P2:80'), "Sparkling Schnitzel" good all around despite being an OffWidth, and "Sparkling Gefilte Fish" a good warm up. The 12's at Sparks Wall are rumored to be quite good, but I did not get on any of them.


Getting There 

To get to Sparks Wall, turn off of the main road left, as for Bridger Jack, Pistol Whipped, Way Rambo, 4X4 Wall, Technicolor, etc...
Not your odometer when turning, this will become useful.
Cross the creek after less than a mile & continue back towards The Cottonwoods area, staying left at all possible right turns and passing Technicolor Wall. After you have gone 3.8 to 3.9 miles, the cliff-band on your right will come very close to the road. A hogback of land falls from this cliff to a rib of raised land near the road, but just before you reach this, there is a pulloff with a jeep road cutting off right, back sharply north in reverse to your direction of travel. Exit the road here and park.
The trail is very faint and easy to loose, but not too strenuous or long, regardless. It should take 20-40 minutes to arrive depending on your rack size and fitness.
To hike up to the cliff, look for a sweeping roof at the center of the SE face, spanning perhaps 50 feet with 3 end-to-end sections at slightly different elevations from the ground. This will be your point of arrival at the cliff. Note downward from there a break in the rotten red cliff-band, just left of a very large boulder perched at its edge. This is also important. Now look down from there to the chossy, dirty "cone" of soil just right of there.
Start hiking by going in your former direction of travel, South. Get on to the first hogback or "rib" of earth and start making your war up to the right side of the cone of earth previously mentioned. By now you should have picked up a trail. Go right up it's side on some flat terrain that is foot-packed past 1 rock cairn. A the top, walk up and left behind a big boulder and a small tree just past the cairn to follow the trail. You will arrive at more flat-ish switch backs, which will wind up and left towards the perched boulder. Go left of the boulder and up to the base of the cliff, arriving at the base-trail just left of the route "Low Spark." The trail at the base of the cliff is surprisingly easy to travel and flat.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sparks Wall:
Sparkling Schloob   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   
Skraps   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Sparkling Zygote   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Sparkling Prom Date   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Sparkling Gefilte Fish   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Divide and Conquer   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Unknown 5.10   5.10     Trad, 90 feet   
Sparkling Schnitzel   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
The Hawk   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Sparks of the Tempest   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Jupiter Crack   5.11     Trad, 130 feet   
Slings and Arrows   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Low Spark   5.11 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet   
Go Sparky Go   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Old Sparky   5.12a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Sparkling Spurs   5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Browse More Classics in Sparks Wall

Featured Route For Sparks Wall
its tradition right?

Sparkling Schloob 5.9  UT : Moab Area : ... : Sparks Wall
Can either do direct start through the bushes or do a slightly less direct up the block at the bottom and traverse left into the crack proper. It widens from #3 Camalots to #6 Camalots and then pinches back down at the top by the anchors. As far as I know this is the shortest route to the rim, this requires the party to climb easy 5.5ish terrain past the anchors for about 5 ft. Might be one chock stone that's a wee bit loose down lower although easily avoided and not easily shifted o...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Sparks Wall Slideshow Add Photo
treed lightly  an respect this great place.

treed lightly an respect this great place.

the wood work inside the dwelling is so cool look but don't touch.

the wood work inside the dwelling is so cool look ...

pot shards an stuff.

pot shards an stuff.

the great wood work.

the great wood work.


Comments on Sparks Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Dec 4, 2006

Sparkling Spurs and Low Spark (1st pitch) both received new anchors in 2005 courtesy of Climbing Magazine's ARI program.

By pfwein
Oct 27, 2009

We had the area to ourselves on a perfect Oct. weekend. The route Scenic Line (in Bloom's guide) was worth doing (it's a right-to-left dihedral substantially to the right of the listed climbs that takes mostly #1 Camalots opening to #2s)--I would add it but don't have pics.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 5, 2009

Alternate approach beta: Go 2.5 miles past the 4x4 cattlegaurd and park at the turnout with the big boulders. Find the cairned trail at the boulders and follow it to the crag.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012

Park as per description above, directly below the cliff at an old campsite. This is exactly where the road spur cuts sharply back. In the back of the campsite is a nice new and improved trail. Pretty steep but easy to follow. It comes up right by Low Spark.