Sparkling Touch 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Ed Webster and Lauren Husted |
| Submitted By: | Jared Brown on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Description This route goes up the right side of the tower between Easter Island and Thumbelina, left of a big left facing dihedral. Look for a thin hand to a zig-zag offwidth. The first pitch goes up a hand to an offwidth crack, over a bulge with cool liebacks using two cracks to a bolted belay. The second pitch goes up a short, thin crack to easier climbing to another bolted belay. Both pitches are 5.10. The last pitch goes past a bolt above the belay through some hard, bouldery 5.11 moves to a subsidary summit and another bolt. Lean across the gap between this summit and the true summit to a crack, then left to the belay and the top. Don't forget to sign the summit register. One single rap down this pitch, then it is possible to make a double rope rap with 200 foot ropes to the ground.
Protection Cams of all sizes. It is easy to string the first two pitches together. I used up to a #4 Camalot on the first pitch, and a #3.5 Camalot is also helpful. Also bring some small cams and at least doubles of hand sized pieces. Bring two #2 and a #3 Camalots for the last pitch an a couple quickdraws.
Getting started on the first pitch.
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The last moves of the first pitch. (if you skip th...
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Tony Bubb on Sparkling Touch P1. Photo by Joseffa ...
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Tony higher up on P1 of Sparkling Touch. Photo by ...
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Tony Bubb and Robbie Williams stand on top of P1 o...
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Robbie Williams on the long rap from Sparkling Tou...
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Steve Pulver @ the crux. Ryan Sinclair belaying.
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A view of the heady "step across" on Sparkling Tou...
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attempting a February ascent
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| Comments on Sparkling Touch |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 28, 2002
rating: 5.11a
| If you are looking to lighten your load of cams, skip the wide stuff. I think I did it with nothing bigger than a #3 and I didn't run it out much. The first pitch isn't very difficult where it is widest anyway. |
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Oct 15, 2002
rating: 5.11a
| Can be done in a single pitch with suprisingly little rope drag. You'll need a 70m cord, extra hand-sized gear (triple 1-3 Camalots) and 4 or 5 long runners. There's only a single 5.11 move with a good bolt at your waist. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 7, 2002
| I found the first pitch pretty dang challenging (but great climbing) and was glad to have some wide stuff (4 and 5 Camalot - although a second 4 or maybe a 4.5 would be better than a 5). On the last pitch, I aided to clip the bolt and then freed by going way left to start and then back right over the bolt. Would have been pretty scary otherwise. |
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 22, 2007
| It is possible to do the whole climb in one pitch with a 60m rope. One double rope (60m)rappel off the east face will take you to the ground. |
By jason malczyk
From: moab, UT
May 4, 2007
rating: 5.11-
| Two new bolts on second anchor. No more taped on hanger. |
By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 13, 2009
| p1 and p2 may be good in one pitch, the start of p3 possibly best by traversing left. The description and topo in the Bloom guide are definitely wrong, from the pre-summit its maximum 5.8.
With a double rope, abseil is also possible straight down to the bottom of the chimney and then just walk out the south side. |
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