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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
A very long finger and tight hands splitter through a roof. Punch through a steep, bouldery finger start (crux 1). The hanging flake (at 30') seems very solid for jamming and pro. Tight hands and hands lead to a first anchor. 5.11. Tackle a bulge through .75 camalots (crux 2). Get a rest in the chimney. Then swing out a stacking splitter (.75-.5 camalots, crux 3) to a daunting but mellow move over a block(.4 protects). Finish by mantling the ledge (#2 protects).
Found not far to the right of where the trail hits the wall. Old plaque at the start.
Camalots: .3 to 2. Many .5 to 1. Save a few .5-.75 for the top slitter after the roofs.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 3, 2015
Rad route! What's the story with the lower anchor? Originally done in 2 pitches? Seems unnecessary and if you stop there you miss the best climbing!
If you're not up to leading this you can easily set a top rope by climbing the first pitch of Low Spark and then walking ten feet across the fat ledge to the upper anchor of Sparkling Spurs.