Sparkling Spurs  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Hong? Submitted By:  chris Kalous on Mar 7, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A very long finger and tight hands splitter through a roof. Punch through a steep, bouldery finger start (crux 1). The hanging flake (at 30') seems very solid for jamming and pro. Tight hands and hands lead to a first anchor. 5.11. Tackle a bulge through .75 camalots (crux 2). Get a rest in the chimney. Then swing out a stacking splitter (.75-.5 camalots, crux 3) to a daunting but mellow move over a block(.4 protects). Finish by mantling the ledge (#2 protects).

Location 

Found not far to the right of where the trail hits the wall. Old plaque at the start.

Protection 

Camalots: .3 to 2. Many .5 to 1. Save a few .5-.75 for the top slitter after the roofs.