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Black Velvet Wall
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Spark Plug 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 1,473
Submitted By: Chad Kuhlman on Apr 21, 2008
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Description 

If you ever find yourself at the base of Black Velvet Wall with enough gear this can be a fun end of the day climb. This is a nice fun finger crack with the start being the most challenging and getting easier as it goes. Be careful at the top of the route as their may be some questionable rock. I think that this route would clean up if traveled on a bit more. The crux may be having the right gear considering most people who go to the Black Velvet wall come only with a light rack.


Location 

Walk uphill to the far left of the Black Velvet wall to about 15 yards shy of the gully that divides Whiskey Peak and the Black Velvet Wall. Look for a finger crack that turns into a right facing dihedral for the first 30 feet.


Protection 

Single rack 2" and doubles/triples in the finger size range. Nice new anchors with raps rings at the top. Be careful when lowering/rappelling with a 60m, tie knots in the end to be safe.



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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

great little route, well worth doing. bring three each of .75" and 1" cams for comfort on this. a double rack will do if you slide some cams up and get creative with stoppers. you dont need anything bigger than a #1 camalot, though.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Sews up nicely with 2x .3, .4, .5 Camalots. Your gear will be spaced out at the top but nothing that warrants a R or PG13 rating. The rock up top is chocolatey buckety goodness, oh my. Finger size dependent as my girlfriend climbed it and made it look like it was hard 5.11 ringlocks.