|3,087 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 225 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Pat Callis, Jim Kanzler, October 1968|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By: ||Sarge on May 15, 2007|
This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8 it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.
P1. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50')
P2. In this superb pitch, follow the righthand set of double cracks past two small overhangs (crux) then end at the top of the rib. Sling tree for anchor. (150')
Descent: Walk off either side of the buttress.
Sparerib is its own formation.
Bring a standard Alpine rack. Build own anchors.
Sparerib second pitch.
From: Las Vegas
Jul 18, 2007
Is there no longer a set of bolts at the top of the first pitch?
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Aug 2, 2007
Can be done in one LONG pitch. It isn't 225 feet as the poster says.
|By Tater Tot|
From: Custer, SD
May 28, 2009
There is a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch.
|By T. Gittins|
Mar 29, 2010
the tree visible at the top of the rib is good for slinging (double length handy) for the second pitch belay.
|By Bud Martin|
From: Bozeman, MT
Sep 11, 2010
To make a the first pitch more difficult, climb the two cracks to the right of the 5.6 crack that is the standard first pitch.
Sep 19, 2010
The second pitch is brilliant. I had to remind myself to place pro, it's easy to forget when you're having so much fun. Probably the best 5.8 in the area.
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 24, 2012
Anchoring to that skinny tree at the top is the best. I love looking at from afar anywhere in the canyon, totally worth the long hot hike up to the route.