Sparerib Area Rock Climbing
View of parking area from summit of Spare Rib. Zoo...
The sparerib area is part of the Gallatin Canyon Climbing area. This area can be crowded (for Montana standards) but not to anyone else. The hike getting there limits some people. Good ole climbing trail.
From the main riverside trail at a 7' boulder take a path to the right/east and ascend the hill past a smaller blocky formation called the Glass Catcher and a larger one between Glass Catcher and Black line Buttress. Continue past these rocks to the south side of black line buttress. These directions only make sense if you know the rest of the area. See "The Rock Climber's Guide to Montana" by Randal Green
Climbing Season For the Gallatin Canyon area.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sparerib Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sparerib Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sparerib Area:
Sparerib 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Zig Zag 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Mr Friendly 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Featured Route For Sparerib Area
Sparerib 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c MT
: Gallatin Canyon
: Sparerib Area
This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8 it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.P1. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50') P2. I...[more] Browse More Classics in MT
Oct 10, 2008
In the early 80's I was filming a friend taking whippers off the first roof on the second pitch of Spare Rib for my sophomore film school project. My climbing buddy had placed a Friend in just below the roof and would climb a couple of body lengths above the cam then jump. I would film the resulting 15 or 20 footer. Then I would move or jug for a different angle on the fall and he would repeat the process.
The forth time he jumped his piece just below the roof popped as did his next one. He ended up stopping just as he landed on his belayer at the top of the first pitch. His belayer, a film school student and first time climber/belayer, managed to stop the fall, but promptly leaned over and puked he was so stunned and frightened. He, then, insisted upon immediately rapping to the ground.
As neither of the other two film students present would agree to take over the belay duties in spite of my insisting "it was safe", our filming was over for the day.
The climber... suffered only minor cuts and abrasions after his 75 foot plummet.
Did I get the big ride on film?... No I was jugging the line to get a higher angle and he had jumped, "just for the hell of it", when the gear failed. One of the roped stoppers on his harness did smack me in the head as he whistled by, however. The film camera was not damaged.