Spanky's Playground Rock Climbing
A seemingly small area of short cliffs that nevertheless offers a lot of good, fun climbs of all difficulties. This area can stay cool even on very hot days but is best avoided if the sea is very rough.
Park at the pull-off on Wades Lane and walk back along the road to the ATV trail before the houses as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail cross straight over to a trail down the other side. This trail leads down to some loose rock that you need to scramble down and then head south to the top of the face. The easiest way to get down is the rappel from the bolts of a climb but there is also a trail that can be scrambled down.
NOTE: The old trail directly above the pull off has recently been marked with private property signs. Please avoid using this trail to prevent potential access issues. The new trail is just as easy, if not a little easier anyway.
Climbing Season For the Newfoundland area.
Weather station 194.8 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Spanky's Playground
Retreat! 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c North America
: ... : Spanky's Playground
This is a fun route, especially if you're sick of face climbs. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide. Wait until the waves draw back enough then quickly walk to base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of l...[more] Browse More Classics in International
BETA PHOTO: The new approach (marked as ATV trail). Credit: Da...
BETA PHOTO: The new approach (as seen from Wades Lane). Credit...