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Elevation: 32 ft
GPS: 47.6968, -52.6993
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,159 total · 46/month
Shared By: Unknown Unknown on Apr 18, 2013 · Updates
Admins: David Bruneau

Description Suggest change

A seemingly small area of short cliffs that nevertheless offers a lot of good, fun climbs of all difficulties. This area can stay cool even on very hot days but is best avoided if the sea is very rough.

Getting There Suggest change

Park past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking. Hike uphill to Wade's lane, which is followed uphill to a trail which is past all the houses, as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail, do not turn onto the main trail but cross straight over it past some boulders to a hidden trail down the other side.

About halfway down, turn right about 10m before a bolted traverse. The trail descends a grassy slope using a few switchbacks, and ends using a scree path. You can use the hard rock to then travel south to Spanky’s or north to Mainface.

Spanky's playground gets the most waves in the middle of the crag, and often gets slick with green slime in wet periods. Depending on how the boulders at the base of the crag have been moved by the waves, this can make traversing the crag from end to end difficult. If the rock is slimy, it is suggested you use a south approach for routes Wet Dreams leftward, and a north approach for routes Slippery in My Mind rightward.

There are three primary options for accessing the climbs from above:

1. Rappel the anchor for Meat Grinder that are seen on a ledge ~20 feet lower than the approach (NORTH SIDE)

2. Scramble a 4th class gully in the center of Spanky's (SOUTH SIDE)

3. Rappel the anchor above Kiddy Crack, clearly visible on a small face above the wall after passing the gully.  (SOUTH SIDE)

26 Total Climbs

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