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Middle Cathedral Rock
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Unsorted Routes:

Spank Your Monkey 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Bennett, Stu Ritchie, Norman Boles (1984)
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013
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Description 

This is a great climb on the triangle pillar on the left margin of the North Face Apron. The bolt-saturated Ramer is easy to spot just to the left and squeezes this route a bit in the beginning. Spank Your Monkey is an exciting and memorable lead, or it can be toproped after leading Ramer.

Start by climbing good features to a high first bolt at a large dish. From here make some delicate moves smearing up and right (5.10b) to reach another shelf and a second bolt. Climb up into the small right facing corner to a gear placement, and do some lieback moves to reach the final bolt. From here it's easy terrain up and left to the bolted anchor. A 60m rope will get you down. All the bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2009 and are bomber.


Protection 

3 bolts and a .3" cam (I used a small blue Camalot). You might also be able to finagle some additional tiny gear into the corner.



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