Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(s) Monkey Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Spank the Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 9,989
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Enjoying the classic arete.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>


This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage. Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing!

Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.

At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.

A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.


On the NE corner of the Monkey. Begin at the far right end of the E. Face/Rising Expectations/Just Do It ledge.


Bolts. Stick clip might be useful. It's not necessary to bring gear for the final East Face crack section, but you can if you want to.

Photos of Spank the Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spank the Monkey
Spank the Monkey
Rock Climbing Photo: Monomaniac, circa 2004, sending on Spank the Monke...
Monomaniac, circa 2004, sending on Spank the Monke...
Rock Climbing Photo: Back when photoshop was a new and exciting thing t...
Back when photoshop was a new and exciting thing t...
Rock Climbing Photo: how to spank the monkey
BETA PHOTO: how to spank the monkey

Comments on Spank the Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

WOW! This thing is the full package. The position, excitement, and rock quality are unbelievable. The movement is great too. A few of the falls would be pretty dang ugly/dangerous.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!