Spank the Monkey  5.12a PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Alan Watts Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Enjoying the classic arete.

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>> For 2012 closure info, see smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage. Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing!

Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.

At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.

A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.

Location 

On the NE corner of the Monkey. Begin at the far right end of the E. Face/Rising Expectations/Just Do It ledge.

Protection 

Bolts. Stick clip might be useful. It's not necessary to bring gear for the final East Face crack section, but you can if you want to.

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Spank the Monkey

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