Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Monkey Face
Select Route:
Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Spank the Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 7,190
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Enjoying the classic arete.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>


This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage. Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing!

Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.

At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.

A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.


On the NE corner of the Monkey. Begin at the far right end of the E. Face/Rising Expectations/Just Do It ledge.


Bolts. Stick clip might be useful. It's not necessary to bring gear for the final East Face crack section, but you can if you want to.

Photos of Spank the Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Spank the Monkey
Spank the Monkey
Monomaniac, circa 2004, sending on Spank the Monkey.
Monomaniac, circa 2004, sending on Spank the Monke...
Back when photoshop was a new and exciting thing to play with. Mike Anderson on Spank the Monkey.
Back when photoshop was a new and exciting thing t...
Comments on Spank the Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

WOW! This thing is the full package. The position, excitement, and rock quality are unbelievable. The movement is great too. A few of the falls would be pretty dang ugly/dangerous.