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Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic". INDEED! The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible. Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up. Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.
The route is located two cracks left of Brokedown Palace.
RP's, two sets stoppers and BD Camalots to #3.
Oct 16, 2007
although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!
on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
A must do on the classic 5.10 tour of the Tower.