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West Face
Routes Sorted
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411 Southwest 
A Bridge Too Far 
Astro Glide 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad 
Blotter is my Spotter 
Brokedown Palace 
Burning Down the House 
Buster Cattlefield 
California Dreaming 
Carl's Face 
Carol's Crack 
Dead Point 
Deadwood Express 
Deli Express 
Digital Extraction 
Double Feature 
El Matador 
Harkness variation 
Jerry's Kids 
La Vaca Solitaria 
Lack of Enthusiasm 
Livin' the Dream 
Man Without a Planet 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) 
McCarthy West Face/Hong 
Mr. Clean 
Mystery Express 
No Holds for Bonzo 
One Way Sunset 
Park Politics 
Some Like it Hot 
Spank The Monkey 
Steal Away 
Tulgey Wood 
Up In Smoke 
Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Spank The Monkey 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Schlinkmann, Mateo Pee Pee and Carl Coy
Page Views: 2,202
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Apr 27, 2006
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Bob Bickford
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Steve Gardiner's guidebook says "Destined to become another short West face classic". INDEED! The first half of the pitch is a fun 5.8 hand crack that many consider "tricky"... and the second half is nothing short of incredible. Face moves and a thin crack in the dihedral really mix it up. Keep your head... the crux moves come in the final 20 feet.


The route is located two cracks left of Brokedown Palace.


RP's, two sets stoppers and BD Camalots to #3.

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By TomKingsbury
Oct 16, 2007

although the route looks grassy from below, you are actually climbing the crack on the right face, which is quite clean; and proves to be another tower classic!


on a side note, this is pitch one of layton kor's 'saber' route, first climbed in 1964

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

A must do on the classic 5.10 tour of the Tower.