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Ancient Kingdom
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Carmania T 
I Pee in Pools T 
Spanish Bayonet T 
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Spanish Bayonet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lynn Hill, Roy McClenahan, Lary Stone & Jeff Sewell, April 1979
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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classic climb, classic location

Description 

Crux moves past a bolt lead into the crack proper which eats up gear, particularly hexes. Gear belay and walk off or rap from anchors atop Carmania.

A hidden gem of the Indian Cove area that's worth the somewhat arduous approach. Three stars out of five.

Location 

The obvious splitter on the left side of the crag and left of the large corner system (Carmania).

Protection 

bolt, pro to 3.5"


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Start of Spanish Bayonet: Carmania in the backgrou...
Start of Spanish Bayonet: Carmania in the backgrou...
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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 18, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very fine climb with one superfluous bolt at the start of the short traverse (solid TCU placements are adjacent to the bolt). Apparently the bolt was added after the FA.
By Jeff Sewell
Dec 18, 2003

Vern, you are correct. Lynn's lead was w/o bolt. An "R" start...
By The Gray Tradster
Dec 18, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this route a couple of years ago, and again last year. The key foothold has gone from a thought provoking C shaped smear to a larger square cut hold. Chipping?? Agreed that the bolt is not required and the gear placement more confidence inspiring than the bolt anyway. Great route though and well worth the hike.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 12, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The "solid TCU placments" that Vern mentions are in a loose flake of rock which surely would break if fallen on repeatedly.
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 12, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The photos were ripped from Socalhotclimbs by an anonymous coward and are of Tom Martin leading, taken by Wendell Smith.

Permision granted to leave them.
By Phil Esra
Nov 29, 2011

The wall is pretty easy to spot--look for the "V" made by the two cracks. The route is the vertical crack, with the other crack splitting off to the left. High up on the south side of the canyon.