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Scarface
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Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 
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Where's Carruthers? T 
Your Mama T 

Spam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,550
Submitted By: claramie on Nov 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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almost to the top... who ever went to the right of...

Description 

Good warm-up or beginner lead. Liebacking or jamming up dihedral with lots of feet ledges on the left wall.

Location 

Keep going left a ways past Scarface. It's the easy-looking route right of Black Uhuru 100 - 200 yards. There's a short #1s 5.11 crack to the right of this route.

Protection 

Mainly #1s, a couple of .75s and a #2. Good anchors atop on a ledge with lots of loose rock


Photos of Spam Slideshow Add Photo
top of pitch 2
top of pitch 2
thin at the start then it turn's to perfect hands
thin at the start then it turn's to perfect hands
at the top of pitch 2
at the top of pitch 2

Comments on Spam Add Comment
Show which comments
By LahDaBudz
From: moab, ut
Jan 25, 2010

i believe there is now a 2nd pitch of.10 for about 60 feet starts as a sporty climb that can be protected with a blue tcu. it then goes thin hands to i believe a couple of #4 camalots. worth it just for the second pitch
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Mar 23, 2010

2nd pitch is good! with a crack switch!
By Rob R.
From: Chicago, IL
May 27, 2010

Following the Bloom IC book, I headed up the second pitch expecting to find some anchors. I followed the crack in the dihedral up and onto the flake, then up a tiny bit of offwidth back into thin hands to a low-angle, lichen-covered ledge of sorts at maybe 60 feet.

No anchors.

It was late, I was short on gear, and no anchors were in sight, so I retreated. Maybe someone will fill the rest of us in on where this second pitch ends :)?

It is a really fun pitch! 2-3 BD #3s are very helpful on this second pitch.
By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Jan 9, 2012

When we visited in early November of 2011, a plaque at the base of the route said something like "bad anchor on second pitch" or "second pitch one bolt anchor." Can anybody confirm or deny this?
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 24, 2012

Recently tried to do the second pitch of this route....my partner climbed up through the nice corner, into the blocky section, and past a short offwidth/slot. He continued on for another 10 feet (for a total of around 70) and was left with a view of 30 more feet of offwidth but no visible anchors in sight. Lacking in gear and any indication that higher anchors existed, he ended down-climbing until he reached a single piece of old tat, slung around one of the blocks wedged in the corner. Although he enjoyed the climbing, he certainly would not recommend this pitch until someone places a second set of decent anchors.
By andrew grieder
From: Flagstaff
Apr 29, 2013

I had the same experience as the previous poster. A nice second pitch but no anchor. I had no big gear so slung a chockstone (looked much better than the tat midway up the pitch), tested it many times and cleaned the pitch. The stone gave way just after I cleaned the first piece of the pitch. Landed on my feet on the P1 belay ledge with the sling floating down and 140 ft of rope out. We scratched no anchor with an up arrow at the P1 belay. Hopefully there will be no next time but, if so, I'll down aid if gear allows; a bit more work but no potentially disasterous consequences. Stay safe!
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
May 3, 2013

from the top of pitch one move left thin blue TCU Crack to some sporty moves thin hands to #3 cammlots to the top . an a two bolt anchor with hangers that read "no gud"EDIT i replaced the anchors on pitch 2 March 2014 get after it!! this is a great climb.. the pitch in the corner looks fun next time im up that way i will put in an anchor.. an have the previous posters give it a name... cheers DF
By andrew grieder
From: Flagstaff
May 16, 2013

Sounds like the second pitch does not follow the obvious left facing varnished corner but goes left?
Here is a neat prussik technique to descend off one point and cut your risk if you can't find an anchor. Twenty years of climbing and I've never seen this but it is a great one to know. Thanks to Pete T. for telling me - although it could have been a month earlier!!!

petzl.com/files/all/en/activit...