Spaghetti Western 5.11+
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Last week at Spaghetti Western. mmmmm
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Dugout Ranch Cattle Drive happening now! Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>
It's Fall and the temps at the Creek are crisp and perfect. Its also time to bring the herd in from the high country of the Abajo's. The FOIC got a call from the Dugout Ranch last night reminding us that this is the week when the cattle are driven down the Cottonwood drainage to the Ranch HQ pastures. As such there are a few requests that we, and the Ranch, have so that all parties can get along without any mishaps. First, if you see the herd coming and your in your car, stop and let them pass around you. Second, the cattle guards and associated gates are bottlenecks for the cattle. The Ranch has requested that climbers park at least 300 feet from the gates. This will help them to get through the tight space, and it might help it so that no cows try and climb over your vehicle (I once saw this in my home town... it was ugly). And third, make sure any dogs are on leashes when down near the road. A dog chasing a cow can end very badly for all parties involved. Folks, the Dugout Ranch is a slice of the old west and it helps to give the Indian Creek area its character. It is very kind of them to let us know these next few weeks, especially the weekend of the 21-23 of October, is when the cattle are being moved. Historically there have been a few times when cows, cowboys, and climbers have butted heads. That does not need to be the case. We all live together in this beautiful place... lets help them out and let the cattle drive happen as smooth as possible. Thanks, the FOIC Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description One of the longest and best routes at Pistol Whipped. This follows the obvious overhanging right facing hand-crack-dihedral 30 feet to the right of Coyne Crack Simulator. Some moderate liebacking leads to the beautiful hand crack which is the meat of the route. Most people will find the 5.11+ rating is a little bit generous so give it a go!
Protection A mix of sizes from yellow aliens through #3 camalot with an emphasis on #2 camalots (5 will do). A #4 camalot will protect the OW at the top.
Aaron Cloud starting up the dihedral.
| Milking the first rest
| Stellar climbing on Spaghetti Western, Indian Cree...
| About to switch into the overhanging handcrack on ...
| So good! photo: C. Treiber
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| Comments on Spaghetti Western |
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By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Dec 20, 2001 rating: 5.11-
| Yellow camalots (2.5") protect the route most of the way, bat take a few blues (3.5"). If you want to lower off of, rap, or TR this climb on a single rope, you better have a 70M. I have climbed harder 10+ routes, by the way. The crux is either the very beginning where it is thin, or the slightly wider section just prior to passing the top of the bulge. |
By Ben F From: Benfield, Kolorado Jan 31, 2002
| 11+, or anything more than 11- is a generous rating of this climb. [I apologize if I sounded like I was spraying. I fully admit that I like to spray. I believe that I have only down-rated 2 climbs on this board - this one and Incredible Handcrack. In the case of IH, I said something along the lines of the route being around 9+ for most people, but harder for those with either really small or really large hands. Many on this board, including myself, have noted that the ratings at the Creek are subjective. That being said, I still believe that this climb is NOT 11+. Mr. Bubb also concurs in the previous comment. I am comparing this climb to several others in the 11 range at the Creek. At any rate, both this climb and Incredible Handcrack are very sexy and most people should not be too intimidated by their grades. If you are comfortable leading 11- here, then definitely consider giving this one a try.] |
By Kirk Woerner Sep 29, 2003 rating: 5.11a
| The bottom was easier IMO than Coyne Crack Simulator since you have some feet out right. Maybe The fact that the bottom is a corner green camalot rather than straight in makes it easier. That being said, the route is LONG and pumpy which made me hang. This a great workout because it goes slowly through a lot of sizes, getting to the easier sizes as it kicks back more. |
By Laurent Meillon From: Golden, CO Oct 28, 2005
| The new Indian Creek Guidebook rates it 5.11. Although there isn't any compulsory hard 5.11 move on the route, the overall continuity and angle, combined with the cleverness required to optimise the rests past the roof, justifies a 5.11 grade for the average hand size. But most important, it's a suberb line! |
By Brian Weinstein May 6, 2006 rating: 5.11a
| not to be missed. 11a seems fair. a variety of sizes in a quality corner. |
By misterclimberman May 10, 2006
| i dunno, small hands kinda suck on this thing. i dont really have any trouble on a majority of 5.11s, but i was panting on this thing. i think 11- is sandbagging, the roof is harder than other 11-s of the same style (think pink comes to mind.) then you got all of the other climbing that sandwiches it. granted ive climbed other harder 11s, but i think solid 11 is fair, and possibly 11+? i really dont know, nor do i really care. the route is freaking superb. bobby |
By chris Kalous Nov 8, 2006
| Anchors on this got cleaned up and beefed up last year. Thanks to climbing magazine's ARI. Chris Kalous |
By Danny Inman From: Arvada Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.11-
| This is the most "Incredible Hand Crack" that I have done, to date, at the creek. |
By Mike From: Phoenix Jul 9, 2009 rating: 5.11
| This is one of my favorite climbs at Indian Creek. A superb & aesthetic line with great moves and plentiful pro. Outstanding! |
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Nov 19, 2009 rating: 5.11
| Grade wars aside- its one of my favorite routes at the Creek. Long, varied, steep, fairly sustained climbing in a spectacular location- what more can you ask for?! |
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