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Spaceballs S 
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Spaceballs 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Apr 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

The climbing on this one is way out there in exposure. You can do this one in two pitches or one long pitch that's definitely a lot more pumpy. Start about twenty feet to the right of Phantom Menace. It's just to the right of a small pine.

Pitch One is a killer combo of small flake-edges and pockets. A neat crux for three bolts and then plain ole' jug cruising.

Pitch Two. Climb the arete using holds on both sides. Climb past a cool monkey bar to a small ledge with scooped out holds. In the ceiling above is a killer two-finger pocket, the rest is up to you.
You barely reach the ground with one 70-meter rope.

Location 

This route is about twenty feet to the right of the large left-facing corner called, The Phantom Menace. It's a few feet to the right of the pine tree.

Protection 

13 quickdraws if you're doing it in two pitches or 21 quickdraws if you're doing it in one pitch.


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By Darren Knezek
Jun 2, 2009

I added the first pitch to this climb today and if you do it as one long pitch it definitely goes up to four stars, at least for me.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Loved this route. Upper part on the arÍte was the crux for me. My left foot scrambling for a hold. That left hand undercling is the key on the roof section awesome!