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The Fin
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Big Corner T 
Lost in Space T 
Mars Attacks T,S 
Red Planet T 
Spaceballs T 

Spaceballs 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dean Hoffman, John Lynch 12/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,985
Submitted By: Dean Hoffman on Dec 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Cleaning the first Pitch

Description 

These pitches are short but very quality. All were led onsight ground up.

Pitch 1: Start in corner almost to the top of the gully on the backside of Lost in Space. Climb, stemming and jamming, up to small ledge and two bolts tucked up underneath the roof. Cool belay spot with light peeking through from the other side of the tower. Fun pitch with crux down low.

Pitch 2: Holy smokes, here comes the business! Stem and fist out of the corner and through the monster roof crack; keep an eye out for the key feet on either side. When you can't stem any further, commit across and pull the corner and another 10 ft to the two-bolt anchor just beneath "The Egg". We found this pitch to be very exciting, and exposed! Think BIG! Very short pitch but rope drag is nasty. Also P1 and P2 could possibly be run together, but breaking it up is advised. Also Pitch 2/3 could possibly be linked, but again rope drag is an issue

Pitch 3: THE EGG! From the belay, head out left getting good gear and stemming up onto a dirty foot rail. Work the steep crack until it pinches off and pull the sandy lip. Exposed, and spicy may the Schwartz be with you! This is probably the crux of the route!Stand up on the sandy ledge and get some gear. From the ledge above "The Egg", work up the offwidth and into some mixed cracks. Look for the anchors up and left. Sweet! We looked at the right crack under the Egg, and opted for the left. Soooo......

From the top anchors, double-rope/or 70m rap back to the packs.

This would be a great addition to a day including Mars Attacks and Big Corner, throw this in to round it all out and summit a true spire. It is also possible to TR the last pitch of Lost in Space from the top anchors. Definitely worth doing.

Location 

This route climbs the opposite side of Burcham and Kenny's Lost in Space. Approach as you would for Mars Attacks and head up canyon another 5 minutes. Scope the Beta pics here to get on the right track. Look for a marked (or unmarked) gully and bushwhack almost to the notch. Keep an eye on the right for the start of Spaceballs, off a low ledge.

Also keep an eye out for "The Egg" about halfway up.

Good luck and let us know what you think.

Protection 

Single Set of TCUs
Doubles from .75 BD to #4 BD (Old BD sizes)
1 #5 BD
slings
All Belays have two bolts
2 60m ropes or 1 70m


Photos of Spaceballs Slideshow Add Photo
caleb terning the egg
caleb terning the egg
Lynch leading the first pitch.
Lynch leading the first pitch.
Lost in Space/Spaceballs <br />Lost in Space climbs the outside Spaceballs up from the notch follow the obvious gully through some good ole fashion bushwacking to get to the base.
BETA PHOTO: Lost in Space/Spaceballs Lost in Space climbs the ...
Mars Attacks and Space Balls <br />note: leader and belayer on Mars'4th pitch
BETA PHOTO: Mars Attacks and Space Balls note: leader and bela...
The view beneath the Egg. Don't be fooled; it's harder than it looks.
The view beneath the Egg. Don't be fooled; it's ha...
View of lower half of route and "THE EGG"
View of lower half of route and "THE EGG"...
Coming out of the Egg.
Coming out of the Egg.
timpson on sumit
timpson on sumit
Lynch inspecting second pitch roof
Lynch inspecting second pitch roof
3rd ascent! Dean & Mark <br />what a cool route!
3rd ascent! Dean & Mark what a cool route!
Moving towards the OW
Moving towards the OW
Looking up the approach wash.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the approach wash.

Comments on Spaceballs Add Comment
Show which comments
By calebb
Jan 22, 2008

dean this climb is a great add to a day of climbing in dry creek. way to go. me and a frend did 2nd assent was great a little sandy but just needs some use. came up with diff beta for 2nd pitch made it mutch better second half of pitch was 4.5 to 5 camolot. we only had one so had to walk it. not good for second. over all geat climb. love to do it again some day.
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Feb 22, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Thanks Dean for a classic route!
I'm surprised how comfortable it was climbing in the shade in Feb.
2 #4's are recommended, 4.5 would work well as well. #5 is not needed. I'd also recommend taking only a single 70M rope for the rap.
Wow, that crux on Pitch 2 is awesome! & the crux on Pitch 3 is intimidating.
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

If you link the first two pitches and rap down from there it's Space Balls. If you go all the way to the top it's Suck Balls!
By Dean Hoffman
Mar 7, 2012

Ouch... sorry you didn't like it, but it's pretty much as advertised, sandy lip with a a hard move up to easier, sandy climbing. Curious which section you found to be PG-13? We definitely found the climb exciting, but not overly dangerous considering. Was led on-sight ground up... also curious how the rope drag was linking p1&2?
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Mar 10, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I thought the 3rd pitch pulling the lip had an element of danger. the last placement was in soso rock. Even if it holds you would take a weird fall back under the egg. Not a life threat, but a good potental injury in my opinion. The rope drag was very minimal on the linkup. Thanks for finding this one! I really enjoyed pitches 1-2. Makes for a great day if combined with some of the other area standards.
By Zack S.
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Climbed this with Jayci the other week and definitely enjoyed it. Lots of respect for the style of the FA - good on you guys. I agree that the small cam in sandy rock protecting the crux is not confidence inspiring. A fall from the crux with this last piece under your feet, whether that cam held or not, would at best result in the leader getting slapped around and at worst in some relatively minor injuries...definitely no life threats. This pitch was an 'exciting' lead and the climb is more than worth it...especially if you don't fall. Enjoy!
By Dean Hoffman
Mar 21, 2012

Hey Zack and Jayci, thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you guys got on it and am psyched to hear your thoughts. Perhaps we had diff. gear at the roof perhaps not. I do remember down climbing and reassessing quite a few times before.commiting, pretty exciting for sure. Did y'all rap down and do the top of lost in space? Also if y ou read this y'all should go do Inception if you get a chance, third pitch is possibly pg13 and chimney would be hard to fall out of but if you did... Anyhow, good luck and thanks for the feed back. Dean
By Sean C
Feb 3, 2013

Sick route. The roof pitch is exciting and a good workout, but not too difficult. It's all a bit sandy but the rock is solid.
By ShireSmitty
From: Boulda
Feb 8, 2013

Did the 2nd ascent of this route with Caleb back in 08 i think (see his comment above) and lead all 3 pitches clean & onsight. it was my first Sedona tower/spire and i loved it! It just beckons you from the road and I remember the only thing it needed was some traffic, i'm sure it has cleaned up nicely and would love to do it again. Thanks Dean for what is sure to be a classic and Caleb for taking me out there.
By Ryan Z
Feb 10, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Make sure to bring a beach towel and some flippers. This thing is a vertical sandbox. I have climbed more than my fair share of sand in Sedona but this one is special. For how sandy this thing is the rock is good. Just expect to look like you got buried at a beach when you get done.

P2 was sweet