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 ADVANCED
Darth Vader
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caged, The S 
Darth Vader T 
Jedi Mind Tricks S 
Oby-won Ryobi S 
Prawn, The S 
Sand People, The S 
Spaceballs: The Rock Climb T 
Storm Troopers S 
Yoda S 

Spaceballs: The Rock Climb 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 3/5/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 5, 2013

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Me on Spaceballs making the fun link between The C...

Description 

Link-ups are often silly in my mind. This one is no exception. For some reason once I had thought of it I had to do it. I couldn't get it out of my head. After all I don't climb to be serious and cool, I climb cause it's fun. This route is quite fun.

Basically it is a 4 route link up from the lowest part of the cliff to the summit climbing mostly previously climbed rock but adding about 20 feet of new stuff. Climb the super fun opening moves of Storm Troopers, then enjoy some new rock heading left to gain the lay down rest on The Caged. After your nap get in to the crux sequence by pulling a really fun interesting couple of moves in to the top of Jedi Mind Tricks. I continued over to the top of Obi-wan and fought crazy rope drag to the top. You don't have to if you don't want to that was just my vision for a long route on a short cliff. If you prefer you can just clip the Jedi chains.

Space Balls starts at 5:55


The hardest part was really just figuring out a way to climb it safely without placing any bolts. I ended up going with preplacing 3 funky pieces in soft rock and equalizing them (this was for the link between The Caged and Jedi).

Location 

Start on the steep beginning of Storm Troopers, climb past the 1st bolt and continue over to The Caged, take the rest there and climb left to Jedi Mind Tricks, finish there or continue as i did to the top of Obi-wan.

Protection 

A mix of existing bolts and trad placements... I was set on using trad gear to do the links but due to soft rock and tricky placements i Preplaced the gear between The Caged and Jedi.

the break down: clip bolt 1 on Troopers, #2 camalot between Troopers and Caged, Bolt 2 on Caged, A blue tcu/yellow C3/Purple Camalot equalized between Caged and Jedi, Bolts 2 and 3 on Jedi, Clip the chains or place a finger sized cam out left and clip the last 3 bolts of Obi-won.


Photos of Spaceballs: The Rock Climb Slideshow Add Photo
the cluster of gear i used to protect the begining of the crux...
BETA PHOTO: the cluster of gear i used to protect the begining...
the line...
BETA PHOTO: the line...

Comments on Spaceballs: The Rock Climb Add Comment
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By James Otey
From: NH
Mar 5, 2013

Priceless
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 6, 2013

I would add that i went with 2 stars on this since it was a bit of a pain to set up the gear which was in questionable rock... and that the full route was marred by the rope drag... i think the climbing was the best on the cliff and judged on that alone it would be 3 stars easy :)
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 6, 2013

How bored are you, Lee? :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 6, 2013

:P i like to say im obsessed but look at it how you wish haha...
don't worry jay you will approve of my next mission... :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 7, 2013

in case you don't get the name ;)