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Space Odyssey 

Space Odyssey 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Ahlborn, Kevin Powell, 1-1976.
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: Blitzo on May 30, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: "Space Odyssey".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Climb the first crack of "Nutcracker", then up the face past a bolt.


Protection 

To 2", bolt.



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By Doug99
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun route and a nice face climb. I think it's more like 5.9 though. The crux is a mantle move to a crack about 10 feet above the roof, which can easily be bypassed by going left to the chimney and then traversing back out. Easy face climb afterwards.

Taking the crack to the right at the start is a tougher variation. Probably 5.10c to get over the headwall. Traverse left at the second overhang to get back on route.

The route is often used by climbing schools in combination with nutcracker and Event Horizon, so it will likely be taken on weekends.