|Cap Rock - North Face
Climb the first crack of "Nutcracker", then up the face past a bolt.
To 2", bolt.
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Fun route and a nice face climb. I think it's more like 5.9 though. The crux is a mantle move to a crack about 10 feet above the roof, which can easily be bypassed by going left to the chimney and then traversing back out. Easy face climb afterwards.
Taking the crack to the right at the start is a tougher variation. Probably 5.10c to get over the headwall. Traverse left at the second overhang to get back on route.
The route is often used by climbing schools in combination with nutcracker and Event Horizon, so it will likely be taken on weekends.