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Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Frank Dusl, August 15, 1990
Page Views: 4,124
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Aug 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Space Oddity, AKA Significant Local.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Woo is not limited to offwidths and other ripper cracks for that matter. The killer feldspar crystals embedded in the slabbier angles yield to amazing, intricate face climbing holds. This route is by far the most spectacular face route in the Woo that I have been on.

Begin by soloing up an EZ chimney and belly crawl (every route here has some weirdness) across a ledge to reveal two studded paths. The route out right is Young Guns, 13a... Both routes share the first bolt. Get psyched and launch off for 110' of sustained and devious crystal pimping....

The beta: do hard moves, clip a bolt and repeat for 12 bolts total. There are lots of tricky moves with a cruxy section along the way. AWESOME!

  • *Don't pull too hard on the "rest" flake 1/3 of the way up** At the top, you have a choice of 3! anchors...The Fixe ring set (directly above last bolt) seems most prudent for bringing up your second.

Protection 

12 QDs, two ropes, stiff front-pointing shoes!!


Comments on Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) Add Comment
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 16, 2004

My partner hates this route. Hates it with the passion of a thousand suns. He's a pretty good crystal pimper, but he could barely operate a zipper for several days after getting liberally worked on this thing. He claims his feet are still numb from it. Back to climbing cracks I suppose.
By djkyote
Jan 11, 2013

FA of this and the 13a was most likely Frank Dusl or one of the guys that worked at his climbing shop in Laramie, circa 1991-93.
By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Aug 2, 2013

Frank Dusl did the first ascent on August 15, 1990. No doubt in my mind. I belayed him.

rob.calm
By double delay
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 10, 2014

Protection here says 2 ropes, will a 70m get you back to the ground?