Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Frank Dusl or employee, circa 1991-93? |
| Submitted By: | Alex Shainman on Aug 18, 2001 |
| |
Space Oddity, AKA Significant Local
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Description The Woo is not limited to offwidths and other ripper cracks for that matter. The killer Feldspar crystals embedded in the slabbier angles yield to amazing, intricate face climbing holds. This route is by far the most spectacular face route in the Woo that I have been on. Begin by soloing up an EZ chimney and belly crawl(every route here has some weirdness) across a ledge to reveal two studded paths. The route out right is Young Guns, 13a...Both routes share the first bolt. Get psyched and launch off for 110' of sustained and devious crystal pimping...The Beta: Do hard moves, clip a bolt and repeat for 12 bolts total. Lots of tricky moves with a cruxy section along the way. AWESOME!! **Don't pull too hard on the "rest" flake 1/3 of the way up** At the top, you have a choice of 3! anchors...The Fixe ring set(directly above last bolt) seems most prudent for bringing up your second.
Protection 12 QD's, Two Ropes, Stiff Front-Pointing Shoes!!
| Comments on Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local) |
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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 16, 2004
| My partner hates this route. Hates it with the passion of a thousand suns. He's a pretty good crystal pimper, but he could barely operate a zipper for several days after getting liberally worked on this thing. He claims his feet are still numb from it. Back to climbing cracks I suppose. |
By djkyote
Jan 11, 2013
| FA of this and the 13a was most likely Frank Dusl or one of the guys that worked at his climbing shop in Laramie, circa 1991-93. |
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