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Saddle Rocks - Skirt (North Face)
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I Smell a Rat 
Raging Bull Dike 
Space Mountain 
Unicorner, The 

Space Mountain 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tracy Dorton and others, 1988
Page Views: 2,271
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002
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Hargis leading Space Mountain. Photo: R.Miramontes

Description 

One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner). Start up that climb for 20' then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier.

Rap off the top with 2 ropes although if careful it can be done with a single 60 meter rope (70 meter rope is better).

Great steep climbing in an exposed atmosphere unlike much of Saddle Rocks which is known for slabs. If this climb sounds famliar it was pictured on the back cover of the 1992 Vogel guide (1st printing).


Location 

This climb lies on the north side of Saddle Rocks, which is around the left skyline as viewed from the road. Approach as for Saddle Rocks proper, but once near the base head left and scramble up talus around to the north face.


Protection 

8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (3/8"), gear to 1.5" for the lower part of the climb.



Photos of Space Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Tennessee eases along the ledge a third of the way up Space Mountain
Tony Tennessee eases along the ledge a third of th...
Kazu climbing the exciting ramp to gain the face of Space Mountain.
Kazu climbing the exciting ramp to gain the face o...
Tony heads up the upper face
Tony heads up the upper face
Kazu climbing the exciting ramp to gain the face of Space Mountain.
Kazu climbing the exciting ramp to gain the face o...
Kazu climbing the exciting ramp to gain the face of Space Mountain.
Kazu climbing the exciting ramp to gain the face o...
Kazu making his way up Space Mountain.
Kazu making his way up Space Mountain.
Comments on Space Mountain Add Comment
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By Mike Kidner
Oct 31, 2002

Protect the crawl out to the first bolt by a cam in the crack on the left. You have to shuffle back and clean it after clipping the bolt otherwise you'll be stopped dead in your tracks from rope drag. A top climb. Always a good hold when you need one.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 14, 2002

A TR direct start to this leading into the first bolt on the route has been done at 5.11+ or so.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 7, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I was amazed by this route which reminded me of Figures on a Landscape. It's a good hot weather alternative.

Position, exposure, big feel, varied technique.

By Randy
Jan 14, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The route has nice position and good moves, but suffers from an inordinate amount of loose-ish rock (the plates are not all particularly solid). This makes the route less that top-notch in quality, but definitely worth doing. Beware rope-drag, slings would be helpful too.

By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 27, 2007

I gave this climb an extra star because all of the holds flex. And the start is just cool. More fun that your average JTree outing.

By Richard Shore
Nov 8, 2012

Thought this rig was bitchin'! You have to respect this climb early as you crawl out the ledge on your hands and knees while peering out at the exposure, and then basically let your body swing off into space while hanging on a big jug, feeling all Stallone-like! Some flexies here and there, but my 200lb frame didn't rip anything off.

Important to note - the guidebooks say 2 ropes are needed to rappel. This is not true. One 60M will just make it to a ledge about 10' up and left of the start. Easy downclimb from there.

By D-Storm
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This thing was a wild onsight ride! Very memorable. I felt like the grade was old school no move is harder than 10a, but it seemed pretty sustained at the grade, and it certainly requires more mental savvy than usual for 10a. By modern standards it might be more like 10+/11-, but I realize this is J-Tree. I make this comment more to warn new 5.10 leaders considering this route. Two ropes would make it less stressful.