Space Mountain 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Tracy Dorton and others, 1988 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 6, 2002 |
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Hargis leading Space Mountain. Photo: R.Miramontes
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Description One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner). Start up that climb for 20' then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier. Rap off the top with 2 ropes.
Great steep climbing in an exposed atmosphere unlike much of Saddle Rocks which is known for slabs. If this climb sounds famliar it was pictured on the back cover of the 1992 Vogel guide (1st printing).
Location This climb lies on the north side of Saddle Rocks, which is around the left skyline as viewed from the road. Approach as for Saddle Rocks proper, but once near the base head left and scramble up talus around to the north face.
Protection 8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (3/8"), gear to 1.5" for the lower part of the climb.
Tony Tennessee eases along the ledge a third of th...
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Tony heads up the upper face
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| Comments on Space Mountain |
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By Mike Kidner
Oct 31, 2002
| Protect the crawl out to the first bolt by a cam in the crack on the left. You have to shuffle back and clean it after clipping the bolt otherwise you'll be stopped dead in your tracks from rope drag. A top climb. Always a good hold when you need one. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 14, 2002
| A TR direct start to this leading into the first bolt on the route has been done at 5.11+ or so. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 7, 2003
rating: 5.10b
| I was amazed by this route which reminded me of Figures on a Landscape. It's a good hot weather alternative.
Position, exposure, big feel, varied technique. |
By Randy
Jan 14, 2003
rating: 5.10b
| The route has nice position and good moves, but suffers from an inordinate amount of loose-ish rock (the plates are not all particularly solid). This makes the route less that top-notch in quality, but definitely worth doing. Beware rope-drag, slings would be helpful too. |
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 27, 2007
| I gave this climb an extra star because all of the holds flex. And the start is just cool. More fun that your average JTree outing. |
By Richard Shore
Nov 8, 2012
| Thought this rig was bitchin'! You have to respect this climb early as you crawl out the ledge on your hands and knees while peering out at the exposure, and then basically let your body swing off into space while hanging on a big jug, feeling all Stallone-like! Some flexies here and there, but my 200lb frame didn't rip anything off.
Important to note - the guidebooks say 2 ropes are needed to rappel. This is not true. One 60M will just make it to a ledge about 10' up and left of the start. Easy downclimb from there. |
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