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Test Pilots Buttress
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Space Monkey 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Caldwell, Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 799
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Nov 26, 2007
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Finishing up the sustained crux on this wonderful ...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Steep face climbing thats somewhat spicey.


Location 

Starts 10 ft right of Test Pilots at a crack. Crank the 20 ft 5.10 crack. Step right at the bush and head up the face on bolts and gear. After the last bolt, do the run out and then step right to a Tim Fisher and Nathan Brown stainless hex natural anchor.


Protection 

tcu's up to green camalots



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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 24, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R

Love the garden hose on the anchor cables.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed back with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

If it weren't for the funky bush action, and the easy but runout finish, this thing would get 4 stars. The face climbing in the middle is excellent!

Edit: Just beefed up the nut anchor today with an additional hex (stainless cable) and better equalization of the anchor.