Space Monkey 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Chris Caldwell, Bruce Burgess |
| Submitted By: | gneiss pirate on Nov 26, 2007 |
| |
Finishing up the sustained crux on this wonderful ...
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Description Steep face climbing thats somewhat spicey.
Location Starts 10 ft right of Test Pilots at a crack. Crank the 20 ft 5.10 crack. Step right at the bush and head up the face on bolts and gear. After the last bolt, do the run out and then step right to a Tim Fisher specialty anchor.
Protection tcu's up to green camalots
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jan 24, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c R
| Love the garden hose on the anchor cables. |
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011
rating: 5.11
| Great pitch, and much steeper than it looks. Quite a mixed back with 5.10 finger crack (with Z Crack start) to a bush climb, to steep 5.11 face, to 5.10+ (?) bulge pull to a 5.9R heady slab finish. Should be in the rotation for local 5.11 gear climbers. The bad bolts that were likely the reason for this route's obscurity for so many years have been replace. |
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013
| If it weren't for the funky bush action, and the easy but runout finish, this thing would get 4 stars. The face climbing in the middle is excellent!
Edit: Just beefed up the nut anchor today with an additional hex (stainless cable) and better equalization of the anchor. |
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