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BETA PHOTO: second pitch flake
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.
Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Continue up the chimney and not to the anchor on the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. The route continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)
Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)
Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 meter rope you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three raps.
Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.
Singles of .01 C2 to #1 cams, Doubles of #2 and #4 cams. Triples of #3 Bring a extra 3 and 4 size cams if you are not comfortable with the size. 10 draws, extending draws are nice for the last pitch.
Contemplating the roof. I placed an old #4 in the ...
By John McB
Jan 27, 2016
As the description says, be extremely careful of loose rock after the flake and into the chimney. When me and my partner did this, there was alot in this area. If you need to bail, after the flake, there are some rap anchors to the right on top of the flake.
Otherwise, this is a fantastic climb. The flake was really fun and kind of scary. Bring a #3 and #4 and enjoy!
By Joshua Griffin
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2016
Loved this climb. Not much loose rock on the way. I belayed off the tree using my climbing rope to extend the belay all the way to the roof so there was less drag then walked over to the rock on the right to rappel.