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Ice Cream Parlor
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Space Ghost 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Ghilje, Jasper Groff, 1995
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: jason malczyk on Oct 10, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: second pitch flake

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.

Pitch 2: Continue up flake 5.9 to a ledge below a chimney. There is a rap anchor to the right side of the ledge, but it is easier to build an anchor below the start of the chimney.

Pitch 3: Ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof 5.10 Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out.

  • Pitches two and three can be combined easily, but you may want more 2-3 sized cams and extending draws.

Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 you can make it in three or four raps via multipule other rap stations.


Location 

Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.


Protection 

Singles set of .3 to 1 cams, doubles from 2 to 4 cams. A 5 cam fits in the bottom of the flake on pitch two but you can climb past it to a 4 sized placement. Bring extra 3 and 4 cams if you are not comfortable with the size. 10 draws, extending draws are nice for the last pitch.



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