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Ice Cream Parlor
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Space Ghost 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Ghilje, Jasper Groff, 1995
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: jason malczyk on Oct 10, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: second pitch flake

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb either the 5.6 corner or Parlor Games 5.9, continue past the first set of anchors to easy ground that is protected by bolts. End at a two bolt anchor below a flake.

Pitch 2: Continue up the flake that protects well with 2 #4 and a #2 Camelot in a horizontal. The flake ends at a ledge below a chimney. Go past the anchor to the right side of the ledge. This is a rap anchor. Continues up the easy chimney to a wide hands to hands crack that leads out of the chimney to the right. End at the hidden belay station located just outside the chimney on a slanted ledge. (5.9)

Pitch 3: Down climb off the belay ledge back into the chimney then ascend a flared chimney with a fist to hands crack in the back of it. When you reach the roof at the end veer left to pass the roof. Long slings are needed to prevent rope drag while going over the roof. Build an anchor off a big boulder or a tree located to the right of the top out. (5.10)

Descent: The first rappel anchors are located up to your right as you top out. From there you can rap all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes or with a single 60 you can make four raps and a 70 meter rope gets you down in three.

Location 

Space Ghost is the the far left crack system at the Ice Cream Parlor. The Original start was the 5.6 Corner but you can start a bit more direct on Parlor Game 5.9.
This route has a some loose rock at the ledges and is directly on top of a very popular area. Be careful when climbing it when there are crowds at the base.

Protection 

Singles of .01 C2 to #1 cams, Doubles of #2 and #4 cams. Triples of #3 Bring a extra 3 and 4 size cams if you are not comfortable with the size. 10 draws, extending draws are nice for the last pitch.


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