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ripping some tip Photo By Dan West
The crux of this short and technical route is on the first half of the climb. Climb the obvious green face through small crimps.
[As you wish. Gave it a run today. This route climbs much better than it looks. Too bad the rock is so poor. Basically you have three not-too-bad moves to get established on a pair of crimps 12' up. From here, a 6-move boulder problem leads past the first bolt (to the obvious horizontal break). I would guess this BP is around the V9-V10 range (although I've never bouldered V10, so it may be harder). I was able to do every move but one, and I suspect that the right aggro-mutant-sponsored-climber-type could pull this off (as opposed to an over-weight, balding, nearing middle-age, injury riddled never-was like myself). The way I was attempting it, the move would go from a decent left hand gaston and a 3/16", sharp-as-hell crimp sidepull for the right hand, deadpointing up and left with the left hand to a two-finger crimp. Feet will be key here, and there is a good chance that the right hand sidepull would crumble over time.
Anyway, from the horizontal break its probably 12d or so to the anchor. I think this is pretty similar in difficulty to Tweak Fuck (which is also too hard for me), maybe a bit easier?
Oh ya, I broke a somewhat important hand/foothold. Its sitting on the boulder at the base in case anyone cares enough to glue it back on. I'm pretty confident the route would go without the hold.
If I had to grade it, I would probably say 13d or 14a. Its pretty hard to grade a route this short, and its admittedly weak to be offering a grade for something I can't do. I would compare it to something like Child of Light (which I also can't seem to do). The crux move here is harder than any of the moves of CoL, but CoL is far more sustained.
Draws. 2-Bolt Anchor.
Photo By Dan West
A photo to show you just how steep this wall is.