Soylent Green  5.14a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.14a/b [details] FA:  New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Sep 20, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

ripping some tip Photo By Dan West

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Description 

The crux of this short and technical route is on the first half of the climb. Climb the obvious green face through small crimps.

[As you wish. Gave it a run today. This route climbs much better than it looks. Too bad the rock is so poor. Basically you have three not-too-bad moves to get established on a pair of crimps 12' up. From here, a 6-move boulder problem leads past the first bolt (to the obvious horizontal break). I would guess this BP is around the V9-V10 range (although I've never bouldered V10, so it may be harder). I was able to do every move but one, and I suspect that the right aggro-mutant-sponsored-climber-type could pull this off (as opposed to an over-weight, balding, nearing middle-age, injury riddled never-was like myself). The way I was attempting it, the move would go from a decent left hand gaston and a 3/16", sharp-as-hell crimp sidepull for the right hand, deadpointing up and left with the left hand to a two-finger crimp. Feet will be key here, and there is a good chance that the right hand sidepull would crumble over time.

Anyway, from the horizontal break its probably 12d or so to the anchor. I think this is pretty similar in difficulty to Tweak Fuck (which is also too hard for me), maybe a bit easier?

Oh ya, I broke a somewhat important hand/foothold. Its sitting on the boulder at the base in case anyone cares enough to glue it back on. I'm pretty confident the route would go without the hold.

If I had to grade it, I would probably say 13d or 14a. Its pretty hard to grade a route this short, and its admittedly weak to be offering a grade for something I can't do. I would compare it to something like Child of Light (which I also can't seem to do). The crux move here is harder than any of the moves of CoL, but CoL is far more sustained.

...my $.02]

Protection 

Draws. 2-Bolt Anchor.

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Photo By Dan West

A photo to show you just how steep this wall is.