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Loggerhead Buttress
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Sow Sow Sow 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tucker Tech (1989)
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013
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Sow Sow Sow
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Description 

This is a nice varied crack climb near the right end of Loggerhead Buttress. The crack system is easily identified with an alcove with a broken oak tree near the bottom. From the alcove there are two variations. We took the right variation which I believe is named "Brown Eyed Girl" (5.9), and follows enjoyable hand jams and easy offwidthing up double cracks and a groove. The left variation begins with some difficult and poorly protected stemming moves getting out of the alcove and then ascends a chimney. This is supposedly 5.9 as well. Both these variations converge at a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.

The second pitch starts with a thinning splitter. Once it pinches down, step left to a fist crack and follow it past an old bolted anchor to arrive at an alcove. Out of the alcove is the crux offwidth. I squeezed a #6 Camalot in near the start and then walked my #5 with me, but having two #5's would have been much more useful. At the top of the offwidth scramble up and right to a bolted anchor.

Rappel the route to descend. One 70m works fine, a 60m might be stretching it so be careful. The rappel stations both have one older 3/8" bolt, and one new one that is bomber. It is also possible to link this into one long pitch if you properly extend your pieces, however you will need to bring extra 2-3" gear and make sure to save a 4.5" cam for the crux OW near the top.


Protection 

Pro to 4.5"



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