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Western Coastal Slope

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Bald Rock Basin 
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Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

MYX Monster
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Yellow Trail - Pine Mountain
Beautiful trail gaining the highest point in Bennett's Pond State Park - Pine Mountain. Near Ridgefield, Connecticut
Tarrywile Figure 8
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Blue Loop
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Blue Trail
Blue trail has it all, and is subsequently one of the most well-ridden trails. Near Easton, Connecticut
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Western Coastal Slope Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.2696, -73.3826 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,550
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

Climbing in this part of the state is difficult was find until sites like mountainproject.com came around. Now it's a little less difficult but there are many issues and few good crags. Given the long history of climbing in CT and the dense population, this area of CT has many little areas spread around which have been explored and climbed by many of the best climbers of their time. As such, there is very little which has not already been climbed at one point or another in established areas unless you are climbing at the highest levels of the sport. Get out have some fun and remember... be discrete!

Getting There 

I-95 and I-695 provide access with many other roads all heading towards "The City" (Read: New York City)

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

108 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',9],['5.8',14],['5.9',21],['5.10',18],['5.11',12],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Western Coastal Slope

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Western Coastal Slope:
Wiessner's Rib   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     , 2 pitches, 120'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
5.6 (2)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Tax Evasion Haven   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Nickel And Dime   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Crackrock Corner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Psychonautics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Frenchman's Cap   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     , 70'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
Happiness Is a Warm Drill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 100'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
That 70 Show   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Yvette   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Sleeping Giant State Park : The Chin
Z Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Laddin's Rock
30 Seconds to All Night   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Cloud Surfing   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 55'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
The People's Rock   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 55'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Ground Effect   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Slightly Removed   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 100'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
The Tree of Life   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
West Rock Crack   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   South Buttress : Ball Field Slabs
Winning and Losing   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'   South Buttress : Old Quarry Walls
Late For Supper   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Great Ledge : Main Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Western Coastal Slope

Featured Route For Western Coastal Slope
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike does a do-si-do

Nickel And Dime 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CT : Western Coastal Slope : ... : Ball Field Slabs
Nickle and Dime is a beautiful two pitch route located on the left side of the sport routes. This route can take off from different locations. The most common start is from the high ledge where Kinethesis departs. From this ledge the route follows the arete on the left end of the ledge up past four bolts to large ledge w/ two bolt chain anchors. The alternate start is a Trad start from the next ledge below Kinethesis. From this ledge follow a large handcrack 15 ft to the Kinethesis ledge and the...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Comments on Western Coastal Slope Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Schneider
Sep 3, 2016
Morgan cautions climbers to be discreet. An excellent word!
I've had some success by asking for permission to cross private property.
Parking can be the biggest hassle.
Your milage may vary.

I'm older, just showing grey hair, & 'talk the talk and walk the walk'
If you are trying to find the best rock do your ground work.
Meet the locals, (tell a local realtor to show you,,,, )
see, you need to have some smarts and Qualifications, not climber stuff.

Do not go at it from a climbers point of view.
Stay in small groups of two.
Explain before you climb that you will want to come back.
If there is any resistance drop the idea of climbing.


and Explain Farley's solution to dispel fears of neighborhood negatives:
Property Values! Have gone down and many worry about "ruffians in the woods"
her words not mine.
(I was taken as if under arrest to meet the Lady of the House)
The only thing that matters is to not piss off the land owners.

In this State you have to ask for permission, if you can take a walk, don't blow it by climbing.
Include the locals in the process by showing them pictures of what you want to come back to try to toprope! It ( TR just looks like it is safer, to the general public.)

There is lots of rock that Morgan must be keeping track of.
I'm not keeping a book, I could but the result would be the closing of many great areas.
If yor interested in see some of the rock in south western CT, get in touch with me.

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