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Mt. Humphreys
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East Arete 
Hutchinson Route 
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face 

Southwest Slope and Northwest Face 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I British: M 1b [details]
FA: August 3,1919 by George Bunn and party.
Season: June to Sept. There have been winter ascents.
Page Views: 1,829
Submitted By: brucelacroix on Jul 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The final 2nd class ridge to the Summit. Photo tak...

Description 

A good route up one of the highest peaks in the US. Just a couple hundred feet of 3rd class and about 30 feet of 4th class to reach the summit. The 3rd and 4th class are near the top of the route. The 4th class is on solid rock with positive holds.

Climb onto the talus and head for the wide, left angling gully. Aim for the notch, Southwest of the summit. Most of this is easy, class 2, some of it is a little loose. Climb all the way to the notch. At the notch, you will see a right angling, 3rd class ramp. Take this all the way, until you hit a headwall. At the headwall, climb out to the right(east). This is the first, 4th class section, and is about ten feet long. Continue right and then up, to the second, 4th class section, which is about 20-30 ft. long. Continue on a 2nd class ridge to the summit. Remember where you came up, for the return trip.







Location 

The route starts at the base of the Southwest Face. Above the highest lake. See beta photos.

To descend, retrace your steps.


Protection 

Some people may want to rope up near the top.



Photos of Southwest Slope and Northwest Face Slideshow Add Photo
The approach is pretty straight forward.
BETA PHOTO: The approach is pretty straight forward.
This is the top of the 4th class section, seen from above. Remember this to retrace your steps.
BETA PHOTO: This is the top of the 4th class section, seen fro...
Stay just to the left of the yellow line.
BETA PHOTO: Stay just to the left of the yellow line.
The second 4th class section is a bit longer, maybe 30' of solid, positive holds.
The second 4th class section is a bit longer, mayb...
The first 4th class section is only about 5 ft., one move, to easier climbing.
BETA PHOTO: The first 4th class section is only about 5 ft., o...
The final 2nd class section to the summit. Photo taken from summit.
BETA PHOTO: The final 2nd class section to the summit. Photo t...
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