Southwest Slope and Northwest Face  4th

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II Consensus:  4th [details] FA:  August 3,1919 by George Bunn and party. Season:  June to Sept. There have been winter ascents. Submitted By:  brucelacroix on Jul 26, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The final 2nd class ridge to the Summit. Photo tak...

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Description 

A good route up one of the highest peaks in the US. Just a couple hundred feet of 3rd class and about 30 feet of 4th class to reach the summit. The 3rd and 4th class are near the top of the route. The 4th class is on solid rock with positive holds.

Climb onto the talus and head for the wide, left angling gully. Aim for the notch, Southwest of the summit. Most of this is easy, class 2, some of it is a little loose. Climb all the way to the notch. At the notch, you will see a right angling, 3rd class ramp. Take this all the way, until you hit a headwall. At the headwall, climb out to the right(east). This is the first, 4th class section, and is about ten feet long. Continue right and then up, to the second, 4th class section, which is about 20-30 ft. long. Continue on a 2nd class ridge to the summit. Remember where you came up, for the return trip.

Location 

The route starts at the base of the Southwest Face. Above the highest lake. See beta photos.

To descend, retrace your steps.

Protection 

Some people may want to rope up near the top.

Photos of Southwest Slope and Northwest Face Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The approach is pretty straight forward.	BETA PHOTO: Stay just to the left of the yellow line.	BETA PHOTO: The first 4th class section is only about 5 ft., o...
The second 4th class section is a bit longer, mayb...	BETA PHOTO: This is the top of the 4th class section, seen fro...	BETA PHOTO: The final 2nd class section to the summit. Photo t...